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Imja Tse (Island Peak) Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Imja Tse (Island Peak)

South Face Easy Snow

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Elevation:	20,305 ft
GPS:	27.9225, 86.9361 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,415 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Evan Ratzan on Jan 20, 2015
Admins:	Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Summiting Requires Permit and NMA Certified Guide Details

You can trek in the region for free, but a summit requires you to hire a guide certified through the Nepal Mountaineering Association which varies in price seasonally and depending on company.

Description

Island peak is viewable from Chhukung and there are signs pointing to the trail as you leave town. The peak can be approached easily through an obvious trail that crosses a series of rocky stream beds from south. When you initially see the peak from the southeast, you need to continue around it, keeping the peak to the north of you as you progress toward lake Imja Tse. This means keeping the peak to your left and base camp is near the latrines. There is an option for a high camp at ~17,500 which follows the trail (see south face description) to a higher plateau. An alpine start around 2am is reasonable, depending on fitness level and weather conditions. Typically, winds begin to get pretty fierce around 10am, which means that descent should be underway by then.

Getting There

Typically, foreigners arrive in Kathmandhu and from there you have two options.
1) is you get mules and trek for 10 days to Lukla with camping gear, food, porters, and climbing gear enough to last an additional 8 days of trekking to get to base camp after you get to Lukla.
2) You can fly to Lukla direct from Kathmandu in 30 minutes for around 30000-40000 rupees,and there is about 8 days of trekking to get to base camp. On the flight, you are limited to 15 kg of total gear, and are charged for each additional kg.

The trekking time before base camp varies with your level of fitness, and there are well developed towns stocked with electricity, gear, food, water, and toilets all the way up to Chukhung (Chhukung) 15,518ft (4,730m) which means camping is discouraged, and requires you to carry a bunch of extra unneccessary weight. You can rent gear in Chukhung but I would recommend bringing the following personal gear up with you: dynamic rope, ice axe, crampons, stove, boots and sleeping bag. Big items like tents can be rented the day before basecamp. I believe you can rent pickets, ice screws, and a helmet as well.