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One of the best climbs at Frey?
Pitch 1: short; crack to two bolt friction face. Belay on ledge at slung block. 5.
P2: Wild and steep climbing up queer features not usually found in granite. Pro is tricky at the start, as much of the rock sounds hollow. After the steep part, a thin face leads to the third belay halfway up the huge, right-facing crescent feature. 6a.
P3: Follow the crescent as it widens into a layback and then undercling flake. Not much for pro until you turn the corner, but it's not hard. Great exposure. Belay at the cave above the flake. 5+.
P4: The business. Lead out left onto the extremely exposed, hanging arete. Bolts take you up to the roof, which you pass on the left. Small nuts and cams up thin features to the last belay. 6a+.
P5: Unspeakably fun and steep jug-hauling, dynamite exposure to the top of the pinnacle. 5.
North face of the Campanille Esloveno. Refer to the three-ring binder in the Refugio for further beta.
Three two rope raps straight down your route spit you out at your packs.
Small to 3.5". Extra big pro optional for p3, or runout moderate liebacking/undercling.
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 14, 2008
5.10 is the grade we were told - could be a sandbag. We thought it was tougher than most 5.10s we'd done, but we're no studs.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 14, 2008
Seemed close enough for me.
|By Paul S|
From: Fruita, CO
May 15, 2009
I'd agree that this is one of the best at Frey. Every pitch was sssooo much fun. If you only have a short amount of time I'd recommend getting on this over Torre Principal. The hike is also not as bad as it looks and it is really beautiful up there.
|By J Med|
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
One of the most straight-forward and reasonably-graded long routes at Frey. But then again, maybe I am just getting used to the consistent sand-bagging? Really fun climbing- great exposure and unusual climbing on featured granite. Also, you can descend the route with one 70m rope- I think 60m is no problem as well- just five rappels down the route.