I'm Calling Your Bluff
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | SM, CB march 28, 2011 |
Page Views: | 984 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | S.Mckinna on Mar 28, 2011 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The climb starts below a bush and ramps left up soft stone. It begins with OW into tight hands inside the OW. It then goes through some good finger locks up to another ledge. It then goes OW to a hand jam to finger tips up to the top. Some of the moves are committing and the stone is sandy and soft. It could be better with traffic and anchors.
Location
I'm Calling Your Bluff is located to the north of The Bant and Stolen Knee about 150 ft. It is a left ramping flake to the left of a small slab/cave.
Protection
I took Camalots: 2#5, 1#6, 1#4, 1#3, 2#2, 2#1, and a set of aliens or TCUs to fill in the gaps. I used more sizes for anchors: some hand gear in a crack to the south. Make sure to place a bomber cam @ the top for a directional. We then walked south to Stolen Knee and set anchors there to lower off of. I will probably anchor bolt the route later.
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