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By Buff Johnson
Sep 24, 2009
smiley face

Yes, while you do get some extension, it just isn't enough to create this. Also, the dynamic rope can indeed play a factor if you have enough rope out.

More to the point though is load distribution. If you have an x rig (or really could be any rig) adequately distributing a load between 2 bolts of equal rating at a good angle and you create enough of a load to fail one of the bolts; you will fail the other, regardless; even in a no-extension rig.


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By JPVallone
Sep 24, 2009

MTTNORVILLE

You are getting an earful here, so I will not add anymore methods to this. It will only confuse the thread more. Many great suggestions and 100's of ways to skin this cat.

I suggest grabbing one of Craig Luebben's many great books, all your questions and many other great ideas will be answered there all with some excellent photography and illustrations.

there only about 20.00$ and you get a lifetimes worth of information and reference.

Cheers


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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Sep 24, 2009
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj

It is simply amazing how many opinions there are on how to clip two draws to an anchor.

I've always known the Brownpoint to be the TR on-sight.


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Sep 24, 2009
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Mike wrote:
When arriving at the anchor, clip a draw to one anchor and clip it to the rope. Then clip another draw to the other anchor & clip it to the rope, with the gate facing the opposite direction. Lower off.


+1


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Sep 24, 2009
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

mattnorville wrote:
I'm at the top, now what?


5.16! Oh, maybe I misunderstood...

mattnorville wrote:
Does anyone do it a different way and/or have suggestions to make my way better?


Your way is fine. Most of the time when I finish a sport route, I just throw two 'draws on the bolts/shuts/chains/whatever, drop the rope in and lower off. Sometimes I'll take an extendable 'draw or two and a locker to back up chains or slings, just to add a little redundancy. Personally, I'll usually only go through the trouble of making a "Sliding X" if the anchor is way off to the side of a route or something.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Timmamok wrote:
I've always known the Brownpoint to be the TR on-sight.


Don't forget about the moot point: when you know--just from looking at a climb from the ground--that you can send...but decide not to. You just got your moot point on that route. :)

--Marc


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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 25, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Marc H wrote:
Don't forget about the moot point: when you know--just from looking at a climb from the ground--that you can send...but decide not to. You just got your moot point on that route. :) --Marc


This is great. The moot point. But, what if you look @ a route and decide NFW (no f-n way) I can climb that. This still might be a moot point, no?


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By Nate Oakes
Sep 25, 2009
~2000' above Boulder.

It's not clear from your post whether or not you tie the rope off while cleaning an anchor to prevent losing the rope if it falls out of your hand. I typically pull a big armful of slack up, and tie an overhand on a bight and clip it to my harness, immediately after I clip into the anchor. This means I don't have to worry about dropping the rope between when I untie it and when I tie back in.


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By Andrew May
From Sandy, UT
Sep 25, 2009
This is a photo from the summit of Cat in the Hat.  Climbed in January 2005.

matthewWallace wrote:
+1


Thats how I learned it too!
Keep it simple, less chances to make errors.
And by using draws you reduce the wear to the anchors.
I tend to use a pair of equal length draws when sport climbing, and add lockers if we are going to be toproping it for a while.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Sep 25, 2009
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Greg D wrote:
This is great. The moot point. But, what if you look @ a route and decide NFW (no f-n way) I can climb that. This still might be a moot point, no?


Yes, I guess that would still be a moot point. But a moot point in which you decide that you can send is done in much better style.

--Marc


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