Illusions  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  KC Baum, Andrea Heath, and Chris Monz, 3/8/89 Submitted By:  Matthew Seymour on Jul 10, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Pitch 1:
Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.

Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall. Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side. Protect with a finger sized cam. Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other. Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect. Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2:
Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge. Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof. Then move left around the roof to the top.

Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.

The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right). A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.

Location 

This is located on the opposite side of the gully from Black Beauty. The route ascends a great looking, steep dihedral. It is also the fist dihedral right of the chimney in the back of the gully.

Protection 

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch. I believe I placed two each from #5 down to #2 Metolius (ring locks down to tips).

A number 3 Metolius (or #0.5 Camalot) is essential crux protection.

Cams up through wide hands for the upper pitch.