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Illusions Area
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Bulge, The 
Freaney's Fin 
Freaney's Fright 
Illusions of Paradise 
Natural Highs Come a Whole Lot Cheaper 
Two tickets to paradise 

Illusions of Paradise 

Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,250
Submitted By: sweatpants on Aug 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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I like it this much!!

Description 

The first roof I've found at the Dodge. This thing is sssssiiiiccckkkk. Lots of tension, ok holds and poor feet. Do some crunches before you get on this thing. Start on lip side jug move into seam behind you, slaps on both sides out to pointy arete, to the top.


Location 

from parking go diagnol right to cliffband and you can't miss it. It's prolly the only climbable roof you've seen in the Dodge.


Protection 

pads



Photos of Illusions of Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Melin crushing problems and people alike.
Melin crushing problems and people alike.
Dobbe crushing the roof, making it look too easy.
Dobbe crushing the roof, making it look too easy.
perfect roof
BETA PHOTO: perfect roof
for scale
for scale
Cory Cotter-Brown.
Cory Cotter-Brown.
Danny starting it.
Danny starting it.
Squeeze!
Squeeze!
working out beta.
working out beta.
slaps
slaps
The crux.  Photo by Jenny.
The crux. Photo by Jenny.
Cool problem.
Cool problem.
Ian sending.
Ian sending.
Comments on Illusions of Paradise Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2012
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 2, 2008

I will post pics ASAP. this thing is rad and really hard. Danny thought it was "easier" feeling than Full Execution. I'm not so sure. then again it was the end of the day and our first day on. Could feel easier next time.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 6, 2008
rating: V6+ 7A

Very cool problem! Hard, but it will go. Very similar climbing as Grounded for Life, but way harder. For sure the most physical problem at the Dodge. My chest is sore from it.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 13, 2008
rating: V7- 7A+

Wow, amazing problem. What a find. Instant classic. Thanks for the beta John. It will go.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 14, 2008

sooo yet another project that i should have completed teases me and beats me up with no payoff. Got to the top of the arete and couldn't find my feet to make the last move to the jug out left. twice in a row. next wed. its going down! awsome session yesterday with everyone homeboys were climbing strong. dobbe and chris it was nice to finally meet you both. word.
sweaty

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

CRUSHED!!! I finally finished her off today followed by a quick second accent by my friend Bill. weeeerrrddd.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

It should also be noted Bill's beta was totally different and did not cut feel. Sick.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 19, 2008
rating: V6+ 7A

Dobbe sent today, it was a rad send. Did it clean twice and almost a third time for the camera(yeah Dobbe!). I was spent, hopefully on Thursday. We also tried the crack alone- very cool. Vince taped up his hands and fingers, felt like Indian Creek out there.

By Dobbe
Aug 19, 2008
rating: V6 7A

This has rad movement and is a stellar line. It fits my style so I would give it more on the 6 side put I could see maybe 7 but not 8+.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 22, 2008

Here's a link to a video of the problem. Good job Bill on the video work. Enjoy

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 22, 2008

Here's a link to a video of the problem. Good job on the video work Bill. word.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 23, 2008
rating: V7- 7A+

John asked me how hard I thought this climb was. Anything over about V5 I am not really too sure, it all seems hard. I guess I can only compare to other things I've done. Anyway, I now can do all the moves on Illusions, so I guess that makes me an authority, ha. It's perhaps a little premature since I haven't sent IOP yet, but since you asked, I think for me, this climb is nearly as hard as Sandstone Violence. IOP is way more physical and a longer crux (like the whole route). As long as you can get your foot up to your crotch, the crux of SV is short and high so it's a totally different feel. Clearly they're very different types of climbs, and depending on your personal strengths and weaknesses IOP may feel easier or harder than SV. But it feels almost that hard to me. Just my humble opinion-- I am nobody and have no noteworthy ascents or accomplishments in the climbing world, or really anywhere for that matter. Climb on.

By nicros fivten
Aug 23, 2008
rating: V6 7A

in my opinion (which means nothing) I think Sandstone Violence is far, far harder then this problem (and way sharper). This problem has multiple knee bars, a huge heel toe, and 1 hard swing. I would give this boulder problem v6.. and S.V. would stay at the grade of V8.
again this means nothing, I climbed on a hand full of problems in this area and have no idea of the grade comparison for the whole area.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 23, 2008
rating: V7- 7A+

Maybe you're right Nick, I don't know. They're both hard to me in very different ways. SV is more my style but still the crux is hard and low-percentage. I have yet to send IOP. Maybe it'll seem easy on the perfect day. BTW, your opinion is as valid as the next guy's. Glad you could make it out and send some stuff. Alas I was working today, seemed like a beautiful day. Jealous.

By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V6 7A

i actually was out on thursday and don't be jealous, it was raining, and hot as crap. some of the worst conditions I have climbed in.

and I do not like being know as "cali dude".. i lived and climbed in minnesota most of my life and the west coast is just where i work. minnesota dude works fine, we could meet in the middle at, i dont know colorado dude? (bad joke)

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 24, 2008

im trying to figure out where u found it usefull to kneebar not only once but "multiple times". I've just been going over the route in my head and I can't figure where that would have been beneficial or where I could have accomplished such a feat for that matter. perhaps I just don't think about kneebars much...

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V7- 7A+

Apologies on the moniker. I grew up mostly in the twin cities, but we lived in Riverside CA for 3 years when I was little. So I guess we're neighbors and I'm a Cali dude too, ha. Peace.

By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V6 7A

beta below, onsighter's watch out.


I get the first knee bar at the start, reach back into the crack.. switch knee bars, move left hand up... move feet into heal toe cam.. bump right hand up crack (into good crimp)... then (still in the heal toe) bump let hand... hold swing (crux).... put right toe in crack and left heal on the arete.. and go up!

this problem is my style, but I feel in my opinion the grade of v8 would put it on par with Body Karate in Jackson Falls. I feel that it is easier then B.K. and that is where my grading comes from. (and not me just trying to be a jerk, because that is against guideline #1)

BY THE WAY,
my name is from the companies I work for.
-five ten
-nicros

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 24, 2008

Hey there. same beta on FA minus kneebars. lol just use the foot chip and switch feet. same difference. I felt the same way about it being similar to body karate which is graded v9. a soft 8 grade for IOP is fair because of very similar holds (i.e. good crimp, poor sloppers, slapping, heel hooks, toe hooks, feet cut to bring to different location, ect.) so by grading it lower i acnowledged that it's similar but very slightly easier. However i think 2 grades of a downgrade is unfair but thats your opinion and I can appreciate your feedback. the kneebars you used though are for the easier moves, the crux for me was holding the feet cutting, the hand foot match, and the following move with left hand to the couple different poor holds. Just my opinions for what they're worth. what other stuff did u get on besides this and S.V.? glad you enjoyed your time homie!

John Freaney (sweatpants)

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V6+ 7A

I would like to add that this is a super fun problem, and good work to sweaty for finding it, and establishing. I to have all the moves down and just need to send it, so no send yet. I would say that this feels easier than S.V. but a totally different climb. To me it feels like V7, but what do I know. It's comparable to other V7's I've done here in WI and around the country, but easier than V8's I've done, which isn't many. Regardless, good work to anyone who is putting forth effort- Great Problem.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 24, 2008

thanks for the shout out homes! Hopefully i'll find lots more like it! :-)

By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V6 7A

I agree, a great problem good work to all.. keep it up.

And as for the grade, v7 would be fair (it sounds like we are all shooting around it?)

until later,
nic

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 26, 2008
rating: V7- 7A+

Well, sent today-- better conditions but still hotter than stink, I still think it's hard but as far as comparison, yeah, not as hard as Sandstone Violence. I stand corrected, but again, super classic and still hard, and for me, pretty close to as many tries as S.V. to send (20-25 compared with 40-45 for SV). I am pretty happy to have gotten the coveted FA on this rig (fifth ascent haha).

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 27, 2008
rating: V6+ 7A

Finished it up this morning. Great problem. You just gotta get the feet up in the right spots.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 28, 2008

I changed the grade to reflect the majority. I think solid 7 is a fair grade in the end. lets get out there and find some more roofs to put up!

By Brian Runnells
Nov 16, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Multiple knee-bar beta works really well for keeping things almost entirely static.

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Nov 22, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

This is a great problem. Originally I was thinking v6-v7. After going back today, I would say more like v5-v6. I ran three laps in a row with out much trouble. I can only conclude 1 of 3 things: (1) The conditions were great, (2) this is my style, or (3) the grade is soft. I think its actually a combination of all three. As I said, great problem. Seems like most people were getting on it this summer when the conditions may not have been been prime. Give it another whirl while the weather is good.

I also did a start from the back of the cave. Starting at the left hand corner. Adds a couple hand and foot moves so maybe more like v6-v7.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 22, 2008

Nice job man! I had a similar experience when i put it up i then did it a bunch of times in a row for video and stuff. so I dont know if that had to do with muscle memory or what? either way it seems that most think it is more in the 6 range and I am fine with adjusting accordingly. In fact I wish more routes were adjusted on this site to reflect the consensus. I'm psyched that you liked the problem bro.

By Tradoholic
Nov 21, 2011
rating: V6 7A

Now that I've done it can it really be V7? Just kidding, but it didn't feel too hard, I gave it V6. Kudos to Mike L for the beta.

By ryanh0504
Apr 4, 2012

I've seen this done starting in back of cave squeezing block with toe hooks and not using wall on left or anything right of crack. Looked hard as hell.