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Illusion Dissolution
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in South Cliffband
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Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Adam Read |
| Page Views: | 622 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This engaging route offers three distinct sections of climbing, beginning with fun, easy jugs that end at a no-hands rest in the open book. From here, surmount the first crux over the steep bulge with either a huge crank from a good right-hand pocket, or use a more delicate sequence of side-pull crimps and sequential footwork.
Good jugs offer a well-earned shake. Traverse a bit right on stellar pockets, then up to a blind reach over the bulge to a sinker two-finger pocket. This move would be trivial if you could see the pocket. This stance offers a final shake before the second crux of rounded nobs and crimps on the mossy slab. Precise balance lead to jugs in the obvious horizontal crack, and easier pockets and nobs lead to the anchor.
Good jugs offer a well-earned shake. Traverse a bit right on stellar pockets, then up to a blind reach over the bulge to a sinker two-finger pocket. This move would be trivial if you could see the pocket. This stance offers a final shake before the second crux of rounded nobs and crimps on the mossy slab. Precise balance lead to jugs in the obvious horizontal crack, and easier pockets and nobs lead to the anchor.
Location
This is the furthest right/south/east route on the Cochiti South Cliffband. Continue right/SE along the cliff base beyond Shadowdancer, across the rockslide. Pickup the cliff-base trail again, and follow to the last bolted route before the cliff peters out.
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