BETA PHOTO: Placing my first piece from lay down rest.
Description
Overhung the whole way. Make awkward hard moves to full body rest 20' feet up. Take a deep breath and climb the steep crack using jams and face holds to a pumpy and slightly run-out finish above bomber gear. The route is called "Who Needs Friends" because it was bolted. IMHO I think it climbs nicely as a trad route.
Protection
Bring a large piece (#4 or #5 camalot) for the beginning and then varied sizes the rest of the way (yellow alien through #3 camalot) or just clip the 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
By Chris Prewitt From: Tucson, AZ Jul 21, 2008 rating: 5.11+
The crux comes early and you get a full lay-down rest after. Honestly, this feels more like 11+ but I'm probably just stirring the nest. Terrific jugs almost the whole way so it's all about endurance. Did the first gear onsight and skipped the last bolt/placement. Heard that the last undercling popped, which would make things a bit different.
Agreed, great gear lead. And anyone else doing it, don't bother trying to get something in at the top, there's really nothing worth while...skip it and fall into the air if you pump out. And the undercling did break, but about half of it is still there and I didn't fell that it was any harder. .11+ is right, although if you botch the beginning boulder prob at all, it's probably .12. Nice onsight crispy.
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