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Great Wall  
Beach, The 
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Cedar Bluff 
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Draper's Bluff 
Ferne Clyffe State Park 
Giant City State Park 
Graveyard, The 
Holy Boulders, The 
Ice Climbing Photos Page 
Jackson Falls 
Lehigh Park-Oglesby IL 
Mississippi Palisades 
Roost, The 
Starvard Rock State Park 

Illinois  


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Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jon Richard on Jan 23, 2007
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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The lesser known beauty of Southern Illinois from ...

Description 

Illinois holds hundereds of miles of exposed rock. From the Limestone of the Mississippi and Ohio river valley's to the Sandstone of the Shawnee Hills, this midwestern state offers a lifetime of stone to enjoy.

Illinois offers great sport and traditional, multi-pitch, ice, aid, and bouldering for its visitors. Southern Illinois holds the highest density of quality stone making it the climbing capital of the state, and a few of its areas need to be highlighted:

The premier sport and traditional destination in the state is Jackson Falls. With over 400 routes, Jackson Falls has something to offer to every level climber. Jackson is truly the sport climbing capital of Illinois.

Every boulderer who passes through the state should make a point to stop at the Holy Boulders. The Holy's contain over 300 boulder problems and a few great Trad lines. With arguably the best quality Sandstone in the state, and possibly the midwest, the Holy's are the classic proving ground for anyone desiring to take themselve to the next level. BUT DO NOT FORGET, although the Holy's are protected, they have come at a cost. The Illinois Climbers Association, as well as other organizations, have been hard at work to repay the Holy's debt back to the Access Fund who graciously provided the funding. To contribute, please donate to the cause by following this link: kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH... or contact the Illinois Climbers Association to find out other ways to help.

Giant City State Park is a great top-roping and bouldering destination. This historical testing ground is the birthplace of hard roped climbing in Illinois. Giant City contains some of the greatest top-roping routes in Illinois including City Limits, which at its time was one of the first 5.12's in the country. The park also offers many quality/leadable traditional lines and few classic boulder problems.

If you are interested in multi-pitch climbing check out Cedar Bluff. With many sport routes and a few quality multi-pitch routes that reach over 95 feet, Cedar Bluff is a great destination for anyone seeking to get high. Also important to note is its sandstone quality and height is very similar to that of the Red River Gorge. Although slightly pebbly, this bullet hard stone allows for great gear placements. If you find yourself in the area, and not to be forgotten, Ferne Clyffe State Park offers great bouldering and top-roping opportunities as well. Both Cedar Bluff and Ferne Clyffe were well fought for by the Illinois Climbers Association, and with visiting climbers support, should continue to be protected and provide great climbing experiences.

The above listed areas in Southern Illinois are just a few of what the state has to offer. There is no gaurantee that climbing will be protected. Please do your part to follow Leave No Trace ethics and abide by local regulations to hopefully prevent provoking any local land manager from restricting climbing access.

Also important to note, and if you find yourself passing through the Northern section of this state while desiring to climb, do not fret, there are opportunities here as well. Mississippi Palisades, offers Limestone top-rope climbing year-round. And last but not least, Starved Rock offers some of the best ice climbing during the cold winter months in the state.

Illinois literally has climbing all over, if you find yourself passing through and decide to stop you will not be dissapointed.

Getting There 

Click on individual areas to obtain specific directions.

Guidebooks 

In Illinois there are two guide books for the southern portion of the state. The first is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland. His guide is a good representation of the legal climbing destinations in the state and primarily focus on sport and traditional climbing. The other guide for Southern Illinois is Matt Bliss's book Sandstone Warrior. His guide beautifully lays out the majority of the bouldering found in S.I. and includes quality color photos to aid in your boulder problem deciphering. These two guides provide you with all the necessary tools to navigate our local crags. Pick them and go enjoy the climbing that Illinois has to offer.

Resources 

Illinois Climbers Association

Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a non profit organization dedicated to promoting climbing knowledge, conserving climbing environments, and serving the Illinois climbing community.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

514 Total Routes

['4 Stars',70],['3 Stars',248],['2 Stars',141],['1 Star',33],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',18],['5.8',31],['5.9',37],['5.10',103],['5.11',79],['5.12',64],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',43],['V4-5',39],['V6-7',28],['V8-9',14],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',10],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Illinois:
The Mollusk   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   The Holy Boulders : Mollusk Boulder
Enlightenment   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   The Holy Boulders : Illuminati Boulders
Shadow of a Man   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Holy Boulders : Shadow of a Man Area
Undercling King   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 15'   The Holy Boulders : Illuminati Boulders
Jungle Book   V8+ 7B+     Boulder, 15'   The Holy Boulders : Illuminati Boulders
Chicken Shack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   Jackson Falls : Mr. Jimmy
Fine Nine   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower
Master Marley   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Jackson Falls : Spleef Peak
Venom   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Jackson Falls : Mr. Jimmy
Cheerio Bowl   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks
Group Therapy   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Jackson Falls : The Gallery
Into the Sun   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
Lovely Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower
Wild at Heart   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
Blue Velvet   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
Detox Mountain   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks
Who Need's Friends   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall
The Reckoning   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Jackson Falls : Battle Axe Tower
Everybody Needs Friends   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall
Hidden Treasures   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Jackson Falls : Lovely Tower
Browse More Classics in Illinois

Featured Route For Illinois
Ant Killer at Draper's Bluff.  This is a killer and sustain 5.9 dihedral crack.

Ant Killer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  IL : Draper's Bluff
Fantastic 5.9 Dihedral Crack. P2 not as classic....[more]   Browse More Classics in IL

Local Information for Illinois
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 13, 2010
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 25, 2007
Oh I am going to Jackson, going get ma fill.
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Oct 13, 2008
Illinois Climbers Association:

iclimb-ica.org/pages/index.htm...
By cuclimbing
From: Las Cruces
Dec 16, 2008
To all you climbers stuck in Charleston, IL, don't feel bad. I grew up in the countryside, and go down any creek for long enough you'll find something to climb. The map I posted above has a spot of mine with a 20-30ft sandstone cliff. Rock quality is so so, if I still lived there I'd get a pic of the face. The Embarrass River has some faces too, but you gotta wade upstream for a few hours. Happy climbing!
By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 24, 2009
Took me long enough to get some Illinos photos posted up here. These are all 80-83 vintage Kankakee River State Park. It would be a very popular bouldering location today with many roof moves just off the deck and most walls less than 30 ft in height. many routes are 5.8 and 5.9 A shame the DNR would not budge on requests allowing us to continue climbing there as of June 1983.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 24, 2009
Why did the DNR stop allowing climbing?
By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 25, 2009
They removed access stairs and forbid climbing because drunk kids with coolers of beer, in the park at night illegally, have trashed it up and fallen down or off the cliffs too. THAT in their mind was related to the use of cliffs for anything vertical. Senseless. But climbing had not yet become a widely known indoor sport back then; no X Games, no MTV or action sports media, so nothing for them to relate to except guys who fall off cliffs with coolers full of beer.
We wrote letters, made calls, had a meeting, explained our simple use, clean climbing, no pitons, toprope mostly, etc..and they still said NO. This was long before the Access Fund got started to the degree it is today. Chalk was not an issue, as it was the same substance and color as the dusty calcium carbonate limestone rocks. Fishermen leave bait containers and trash, and hike down the same rugged cliff trail that we do,but they get to stay. (they pay for stuff, we didn't; so go figure) Trespass and you would get your gear taken away plus a fine.
Since then, with the lack of climbing traffic on the cliffs, there is a major increase of plants on the blocky rocks. Many holds are gone from dirt and invasive plant roots prying them off the walls. Hard to believe we were safer than nature turns out to be.
By JamesW
Jan 4, 2010
If you visit Rock Creek you can see the remnants of past climbing...fixed pins on a lot of the walls. Rumor has it that Mike McCarrin had authored a hand drawn guidebook... I have also heard of some harder routes being established in the creek (.13ish) by McCarrin???
FYI;
A few years ago i was speaking with a local & was told that another canyon exists in the area. apparently it is on private property, but is supposedly deeper and more undercut than rock creek...does anyone have any info on this???
By Tradoholic
Mar 1, 2010
Is there an admin for Illinois? I was proposing to someone that some organization could be done, specifically for Starved Rock but there doesn't seem to be an admin. If not, any locals want to volunteer?
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Jul 27, 2010
I am looking for old guide books. Midwest preferably, but I'd be interested in most anything. Kind of a hobby. I like to know the history and true route names of the places I climb.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2010
I agree with Rhoads. Illinois needs an admin. There are some really bad route descriptions that could use some cleaning up. Anyone?
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 22, 2010
Where's the best place to boulder in S. IL? Jackson Falls? Somewhere else? Any advice would be appreciated. In S. IL. for Thanksgiving, but going through rock withdrawal. Thanks folks.
By Tradoholic
Nov 23, 2010
Lee, lots of Boulders down there. Jackson Falls will have the most easily found high quality problems. Bring your harness and shoes as you will probably be able to hook up with some people for some belays.
By Clint C
Dec 13, 2010
I'm looking to compile some sweet photos of IL or any midwest climbing for a writing project.
Please send me any you have to clateboulder@yahoo.com

Please send in a jpg low resolution format.

Appreciate it,

Climb on
By mattmaxwell
From: southern indiana
Dec 13, 2010
Lee -- check out "The Sandstone Warrior" guidebook by Matt Bliss. book dedicated to bouldering in So Ill. popular (as in just a few people) areas: Jackson Falls, One Horse Gap, Dixon Springs, Holy Boulders, Giant City.......