Iliniza Sur Climbing

Illiniza Sur is an alpine snow/ice climb in an excellent setting. It neighboors the nearby Illiniza North, a much easier and less technical climb.
Illiniza North and South serve as good acclimitazation climbs for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

The conditions on the normal route, I am told, vary wildly. Yossi Brain's guidebook gives 8 hours roundtrip from the hut to the summit and back. This is when the glacier and mountain has snow cover. It took us nearly 16 hours to complete the climb, because the entire route was essentially an ice climb, which necessitated down-climbing as well, rather than what would have been much easier plunge stepping.
Check with local sources/guides before climbing.