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Illiniza Sur and Norte in Ecuador VS Similar Peaks in Peru and Bolivia?
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By Per Andersson
From Moab
Aug 4, 2011
Patagonia

Ill be spending a month in Peru (Cordillera Blanca in June) followed by three weeks in Ecuador (July) and a month in Bolivia (Cordillera Real in August). Apart from Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, Ive found two peaks Id like to climb in Ecuador: Illiniza Sur and Norte (around AD+). Ive read good things about them as Ecuadorian peaks, but fearing the relativism of guidebooks, Id like to hear if anyone here can compare them to similar peaks in Peru and Bolivia? Should I bother with the Illinizas, or are they only good peaks in the Ecuadorian context? Will I be better off spending an additional week in Peru or Bolivia instead? They do have an amazingly easy access but the weather is supposed to be a lot worse than in Peru and Bolivia. The peaks Im already planning on doing in Bolivia and Peru are Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Pisco, Cholpicalqui (Peru), Illampu, Illimani, Huyana Potosi, Condoriri, Pequeno Alpamayo (Bolivia) and the alternatives to the Illinizas would be something like Artesonraju, Piramide de Garcilaso, Huascaran Sur/Norte, Huandoy Norte (Peru) , Soral Oeste, Cololo (Bolivia).

Thanks
/Per


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Aug 4, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

I don't have nearly enough experience to tell you definitively where to go, but I did climb Illiniza Norte, and it is a great acclimatization peak for Cotopaxi. There is also a really nice refuge to sleep in if you want to do a night at 4700 meters to acclimatize. The views are lovely, but it's not a technical climb. Illiniza Sur is supposed to be far more technical, but we didn't have all of our gear along.

Here is what you are in store for:

View from Illiniza Norte
View from Illiniza Norte


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By Daniel Trugman
From Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 4, 2011
Final steps up Blanca after a snowy traverse. <br /> <br />Photo by Jason Halladay.

Like Alicia, I've only climbed Iliniza Norte, also as an acclimatization peak for Cotopaxi. It was quite fun, and the views would be great on a clear day, but I suspect that it is a less interesting peak than some of the others on your list. Under normal conditions, it's a walk up, maybe with a bit of class 3 scrambling on slightly loose terrain. We did it after a heavy storm, so our ascent involved a fair bit of snow climbing, but I'm told this is unusual.

Iliniza Sur certainly looks more technical and interesting, but again, I think some of the other peaks on your list look just as nice. That said, if you are looking to to four peaks in Ecuador, the four you mentioned aren't bad choices at all. I might try Cayembe myself, instead of the Illinizas.


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