|By Per Andersson |
Aug 4, 2011
I´ll be spending a month in Peru (Cordillera Blanca in June) followed by three weeks in Ecuador (July) and a month in Bolivia (Cordillera Real in August). Apart from Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, I´ve found two peaks I´d like to climb in Ecuador: Illiniza Sur and Norte (around AD+). I´ve read good things about them as Ecuadorian peaks, but fearing the relativism of guidebooks, I´d like to hear if anyone here can compare them to similar peaks in Peru and Bolivia? Should I bother with the Illinizas, or are they only good peaks in the Ecuadorian context? Will I be better off spending an additional week in Peru or Bolivia instead? They do have an amazingly easy access but the weather is supposed to be a lot worse than in Peru and Bolivia. The peaks I´m already planning on doing in Bolivia and Peru are Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Pisco, Cholpicalqui (Peru), Illampu, Illimani, Huyana Potosi, Condoriri, Pequeno Alpamayo (Bolivia) and the alternatives to the Illinizas would be something like Artesonraju, Piramide de Garcilaso, Huascaran Sur/Norte, Huandoy Norte (Peru) , Soral Oeste, Cololo (Bolivia).
|By Daniel Trugman |
From Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 4, 2011
Like Alicia, I've only climbed Iliniza Norte, also as an acclimatization peak for Cotopaxi. It was quite fun, and the views would be great on a clear day, but I suspect that it is a less interesting peak than some of the others on your list. Under normal conditions, it's a walk up, maybe with a bit of class 3 scrambling on slightly loose terrain. We did it after a heavy storm, so our ascent involved a fair bit of snow climbing, but I'm told this is unusual.
Iliniza Sur certainly looks more technical and interesting, but again, I think some of the other peaks on your list look just as nice. That said, if you are looking to to four peaks in Ecuador, the four you mentioned aren't bad choices at all. I might try Cayembe myself, instead of the Illinizas.