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Illiniza Sur

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Illiniza Sur  

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Elevation: 17,268'
Location: 78, 0 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 873
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Rich on Mar 17, 2010
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Illiniza Sur is an alpine snow/ice climb in an excellent setting. It neighboors the nearby Illiniza North, a much easier and less technical climb.
Illiniza North and South serve as good acclimitazation climbs for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

The conditions on the normal route, I am told, vary wildly. Yossi Brain's guidebook gives 8 hours roundtrip from the hut to the summit and back. This is when the glacier and mountain has snow cover. It took us nearly 16 hours to complete the climb, because the entire route was essentially an ice climb, which necessitated down-climbing as well, rather than what would have been much easier plunge stepping.
Check with local sources/guides before climbing.

Getting There 

Fly to Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. From there or in advance it is easy to arrange transport using various outfitters or guide services.
You can also rent a car and drive yourself; most guidebooks have directions on how to get to the trailhead.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.8 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Illiniza Sur
Red Line is the Normal Route

Normal Route AI3-4 Steep Snow  South America : Ecuador : Illiniza Sur
Follow the moraine above the glacier until you are beyond the La Rampa Coulior and then drop right on to the glacier. Traverse right and then head up to reach a point to the right of a rock outcrop and head up. In dry conditions, this can be hard ice-gravel at 45 degrees. The slope slackens above and trends right-ward to a rightward traverse that brings you to a large crevasse. Depending on conditions, either cross the crevasse to the right on a snow bridge or cut back left into it and then clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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Illiniza Sur from Norte
Illiniza Sur from Norte

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