|Penitente - Entrance Area
This is located immediately left of the popular "Forbidden Fruit".
This route might be a bit contrived. It starts out steep on some nice jugs, then quickly turns into a steep slab. I felt compelled to avoid using the crack on the right ("Apocketlips") which made for a couple hard slab moves. My friends used the crack, and it probably makes sense to do so. The crux comes about mid-height with some small pockets on great rock.
Being a nice route next to two of the canyon's most popular, I don't see why this route doesn't get more traffic.
|Comments on Illegal Alien
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I agree this one feels a little contrived, avoiding the crack makes this one harder than the adjacent 12a Forbidden Fruit. Overall, I thought this was a bitchy tweaky little route not really worth the effort. If you are here for the weekend there are plenty of other better routes to do.
|By Aeon Aki|
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Use the crack! This is rock climbing, not the gym. Using it does not avoid the crux, and there are some great jams in there. Well worth it if you already did Forbidden Fruit.