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Ill Gotten Booty 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Johnson
Page Views: 1,237
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on May 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Scotty on Ill Gotten Booty during a hot summer day

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route looks cooler than it is, but because it looks so cool it's still not bad. It appears that a lot of the flakes have come off making it somewhat awkward in sections. Many of the flakes that remain are glued in place, which is somewhat interesting. Also, I recommend rappelling the route (or having a second follow) because it can be hard to clean while being lowered.

Location 

As you approach the crag the route is to the left, and climbs up and over the arete with a great big view behind it.

Protection 

5 bolts to lower offs. The first bolt can be clipped by a tall climber from the ground, and there is a steep drop off from the start so you may want to do that.


Photos of Ill Gotten Booty Slideshow Add Photo
Ok route, great pictures.
Ok route, great pictures.

Comments on Ill Gotten Booty Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 24, 2007

this route is way too glued... let it fall off and see what the new route would be like...
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Sep 19, 2007

Nice picture Tom, probably the best thing about the route is how photogenic it is.
By chinos
Mar 29, 2010

if a route needs to be glued that much, whats the point?
By twellman
Apr 4, 2010

The climb itself is nothing amazing, but the exposure and the view from the top definitely make it worth it. And how often do you get to pull on flakes that bend?
By Brady Callahan
From: Lyndonville, VT
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I could only find 4 bolts before the LO on this route.
By Josh S
Sep 4, 2012

There's a wasp's nest at the bottom of this climb now.
By Brian Monetti
From: NYC
Oct 29, 2012

One of the large glued on flakes finally fell off, I think by the third bolt? The climb is still doable, maybe a half grade harder since that flake was a very useful hand and foot hold, but you can get by on some small rails instead
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 6, 2013

man, I hated this climb.....interesting to read Brian M's comment now, that section felt really thin and awkward today. worth it for the exposure and the view but I won't be getting on this again...