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Ill Communication
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Cellular Service Wall
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Can You Hear Me Now? S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Glass House S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Goliath S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hotline Bling S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Ill Communication S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pale Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Primary Assessment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Snyder, P1 - 2004. P2, 3 & 4 - 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,086 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Oct 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
An old creation, that now goes to the summit! All bolts, all free, totally badass!
Pitch 1 - Climb straight up the center of this wall to the faint dihedral just left of the obvious prow feature. The crux is literally the last move before reaching a ledge. .12b - 100 feet.
Alternate 1st pitch - Climb Can You Hear Me Now? .12a/b to the same ledge. Maybe even bad-asser.
Pitch 2 - Step to the left off the ledge and mount the exposed prow or tick tack up little edges. There are several ledges to pass on this short pitch. .10c, 50 feet
Pitch 3 - The munge pitch. The obligatory passage that must be overcome to reach the glory of the final pitch. Its actually not that bad. Shoot up the white dihedral skirting to the right to by pass as much of the black asphalt section as possible. Grab the bomber gray pinches and traverse back left atop the asphalt to reach the left trending flake system. The roof above is the crux. Wrestle this bastard and ease your way up the crimp face/prow above. Scamper past lower angle mungy jugs to the anchor. .11d, 100 feet.
Pitch 4 - Oh my! Heaven awaits! If this pitch were on the SMW or at the Island there would be a line around the block to climb it. The first 20 feet of climbing in the white rock is on previously flaky but cleaned jugs leading up into the good gray rock and finally the reddish brown patinaed stone that is generally the best rock in the canyon. Climbing brilliance to the summit. .11d, 90 feet
The chains are a few feet below the summit to make for a clean rappel. I recommend clipping the chains with enough slack so you can sit on the summit with your feet dangling in space while you belay your partner up using the high bolt on the boulder as a redirect. The view is... well go see for yourself.
Pitch 1 - Climb straight up the center of this wall to the faint dihedral just left of the obvious prow feature. The crux is literally the last move before reaching a ledge. .12b - 100 feet.
Alternate 1st pitch - Climb Can You Hear Me Now? .12a/b to the same ledge. Maybe even bad-asser.
Pitch 2 - Step to the left off the ledge and mount the exposed prow or tick tack up little edges. There are several ledges to pass on this short pitch. .10c, 50 feet
Pitch 3 - The munge pitch. The obligatory passage that must be overcome to reach the glory of the final pitch. Its actually not that bad. Shoot up the white dihedral skirting to the right to by pass as much of the black asphalt section as possible. Grab the bomber gray pinches and traverse back left atop the asphalt to reach the left trending flake system. The roof above is the crux. Wrestle this bastard and ease your way up the crimp face/prow above. Scamper past lower angle mungy jugs to the anchor. .11d, 100 feet.
Pitch 4 - Oh my! Heaven awaits! If this pitch were on the SMW or at the Island there would be a line around the block to climb it. The first 20 feet of climbing in the white rock is on previously flaky but cleaned jugs leading up into the good gray rock and finally the reddish brown patinaed stone that is generally the best rock in the canyon. Climbing brilliance to the summit. .11d, 90 feet
The chains are a few feet below the summit to make for a clean rappel. I recommend clipping the chains with enough slack so you can sit on the summit with your feet dangling in space while you belay your partner up using the high bolt on the boulder as a redirect. The view is... well go see for yourself.
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