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Low Spark of High Wire Crag
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I'll Be Back Crack T 
MayD&F T 

I'll Be Back Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randy & Belen Carmichael, 9/16/2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Sep 16, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: I'll Be Back Crack.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is short, steep, and pumpy. The holds and pro are all there, but the question is if you can stay with it before the gas runs out.

This diagonal crack (left to right) faces north, is about 40 feet above the river, and can easily be seen from the bridge on the east side of Tunnel 2. Begin on the low angle arÍte near the edge of Clear Creek. Set an anchor for your belayer and climb over an easy shelf to the base of the crack. 30 feet of assorted finger, hand, and arm jams with a jug in between will get you to the top.

There is a large boulder on a grassy knoll about 15 feet above the top of the crack that can be slinged for an anchor, or there are some cracks available for the anchor 20 feet above the boulder. Be sure to consider the traversing nature of this climb for protecting the follower when setting your pro and anchor. Watch out for small pesky cacti at the top of the crack.

Descent: Head left (southwest) up the grassy knoll and 4th class up some easy rock to the base of High Wire Crag. Watch for loose rocks.


Protection 

A standard rack plus some RPs. Bring some long slings for the anchor.


Location 

From the bridge on the east side of the 2nd Tunnel, scramble down to the west side of the river. Hike along the west bank for about 200 feet. Boulder up to a large, sloping ledge. Scramble down the ledge towards the river at which point you can see the diagonal crack to the west and about 40 feet above you.



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