I'itoi Dance

This is a great way to climb Babo's SW face that I enjoyed more than the better-known Born of Water to the right. The route uses occasional bolt-protected face climbing to connect a series of corners and bulges. It's fun and well-protected at the cruxes, with some runouts and loose rock on easier ground. While trolling for info about Baboquivari, I found this comment by Mike Strassman, who did the FA of both routes: I'itoi Dance is "far better than Born of Water and burlier too." That piqued our interest, and the route was worthwhile, although I wouldn't really call it "burly." In fact, technically there's nothing as hard as the crux water groove on Born of Water, although I found I'itoi Dance more sustained and enjoyable overall and more of an adventure as there's fewer bolts to follow. 

This route is not in Kerry's guide. Mike Strassman's original topo and description used to be available on the web but as of 2021 seem to have disappeared, so I'm writing a full description. It's been six-plus years since I climbed it, but having done it three times I think I remember it fairly well. Mike's topo had nine pitches but we did it in six with a 60-meter rope, and that seemed reasonable, so that's what I'll describe. 

Hike the west side trail up to the great ramp as for the Standard/Forbes Route. From here, bushwhack along the base of the wall (you are on Lion's Ledge at this point - this area burned in the mid-to-late-teens). The beginning of the route is difficult to find, and the route does not start "at the lowest point of the wall" as Mike's description says. It's roughly in the middle of the broad, amorphous SW face. Look for the bolt 10 feet off the ground on an 80-foot high buttress or mini-flatiron that protrudes from the wall, and for the square flat coffee-table sized rock at the base. If you get to the "South Side of the Sky," an obvious overhanging area with a fully-bolted single pitch (Watcher of the Skies) to the left, you've gone too far, as well as passed the beginning of both Born of Water and Cloud Man Got Angry, and you need to backtrack a ways. The low, solitary bolt with the conspicuous flat rock is by far the best and most unique marker for the start. 

P1: Clip the bolt and crank an .8/.9 move, then follow easier but runnout rock to the top of the buttress and a tree belay below a steeper section of the wall. ~100 to 120 feet?

P2: clip two bolts up the vertical wall (second one is easy to miss and not really necessary), then traverse left to a corner/groove (gear). From the corner's top, do a rising rightward .10-/10 traverse past three bolts into a short left-facing corner, then stretch the lead to a small ledge with a small tree and other optional gear for a belay. Alternatively, belay a bit lower off the pillar that forms the top of the corner, but this does not set you up as well for the next long pitch. ~170+ feet?

P3: Run it out up the .7ish slab to a break in the roof band above with a bolt. (Mike noted belaying right below the roof but that would be uncomfortable and you'd probably have to incorporate the bolt protecting the roof into the belay). It's hard to find the easiest path through the slab below the roof. Clip the bolt and do a fun .10- roof pull, then .8ish gear-protected climbing leads to a traverse right to a ledge with a tree for a belay; however, if you can manage the drag, heading back up left to a smaller, higher ledge (but with smaller trees as well) sets you up slightly better for the next rope-stretcher. 150+ feet?

P4: A seam off the right side of the higher belay ledge leads to steep .9 climbing past the right end of a roof using two bolts and some gear. Continue up the steep, fun .10-/.10 corner (gear) to where the wall slabs out, and stretch the lead to the highest possible ledge. 180+ feet.

P5: continue up the slab past a ledge that leads off left, where it becomes wider and tree-covered. If you're running low on daylight, energy, etc, this ledge leads to easy 3rd/4th class scrambling to the summit if need be (you've already done the best climbing on the route at this point anyway). Otherwise, don't belay, but look for 4 bolts on the wall above. Follow these through .10- climbing and arrange a belay above that where feasible, stretching the rope on easier ground. 150-200 feet.

Another option on this pitch is to move up and right and join the last couple .7 pitches of Born of Water (you may encounter a bolt or two over here depending where you intersect Born of Water). While not the highest-quality climbing this is probably the most obvious way to go in this area if you aren't aware of the ledge escape, so don't worry if you end up over here, you'll find your way to the top okay.  

P6: I have no recollection of this pitch except that it's the easiest and loosest pitch of the route. Wander/grovel to the top of the wall using your best route-finding and choss-wrangling skills. It's not that bad and if you've made it to here you won't need a description for this pitch. The summit is a few minutes to your left. 150-200 feet. 

see description

A fairly light rack works since there are about a dozen bolts on the route, often at cruxes, as well as several stretches of easier (5.7ish) climbing that simply don't accept worthwhile gear. The belays are not fixed but we made most or all belays primarily off of trees. A single set of cams from blue tcu/red C3 size to #2 camalot, a set of nuts, loads of long runners, and 3-4 quickdraws for the occasional bolts was enough. Extra smaller cams (up to a .75 camalot) would probably get used if you're inclined to take them.