Igor Unleashed 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | M. Brown / J. Buhl |
| Season: | Year round |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Buhl on Sep 17, 2008 |
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Description Although short, I found this to be a nice route with some interesting /technical moves.
The crux is establishing yourself on the face and then moving through very technical and thin climbing past three bolts.
Location Find the first line of 4 bolts to left of Ho De Dum.
Protection The pro is 6-7 draws + an optional 0.75 -1" piece for the final run to the bolted anchor.
| Comments on Igor Unleashed |
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 13, 2010
| Personally, I thought the climbing was rather mellow until the third bolt, where you leave that little ledge rest and then fairly tame again once you've clipped the fourth bolt. Also, 5 bolts in all.
As for a grade, I didn't check this site to see what this route was before I got on it and am surprised the grade is as low as it is. I would have said 11d had someone asked me. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips. |
By Brady Robinson
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Crux is gnarly and still evolving. Pretty hard even at 12a if you asked me, but I'm not a slab master.... |
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