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BETA PHOTO: Climb right of the arete, then cross over to left ...
A fun excursion with an alpine feel.
It was once the practice to climb this route with a point of aid. If you are short, you will still see the logic in the old approach. Zimmerman and Smith state wryly "This is an unprecedented opportunity to push your free climbing past the thresholds of yesterday."
The crux is behind the little pine tree about 20-30 feet up. This used to be aid, then it went free at F5. The latest guidebook calls it 5.4. Could be 5.6 or 5.7 if you're really short. Fortunately the hold you throw for is really big and really flat.
Finish in the dihedral as for Cheatah (which would make this 5.7), or wind around the nose to the left for easier, blocky ledges that are more in keeping with the rest of the route.
Around the corner to the right of "Cheatah"; left of "Breakfast of Champions."
Pro is rather sparse as you clamber from ledge to ledge.
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Fun enough, pro is spare but the climbing is very easy. I didn't encounter any big moves, although I'm 6ft ;) There is a good belay ledge at the pine tree in the dihedral. You can also set the TR for Cheetah there and rap down.