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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Ignominity 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Erickson, Behrens, 1968.
Page Views: 3,402
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Mark Speiker high on the face of 3rd Pitch of Igno...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pretty cool route with some steep cruxes and interesting climbing. Starts at the R-facing dihedral about 25ft. left of Long John Wall.

P1: Ascend the easy dihedral and head right around a small roof and tree. Now move back left and up the face (8) to a tree with slings.

P2: Climb the easy dihedral up to the first crux, a bulge that you can lieback (8+). Now at the next rest stance, place another piece and crank the juggy, but steep crux (9). Pull up to a low angle dihedral and move up to a big ledge.

P3: Now climb up and left through a wide slot and make a balancy move to get situated on this sloping ledge. Carefully stand up and get the big jugs and mantel up to the next section (8). The thin crack above will take a 2 friend low, and a 3-RP higher. Get your left foot jammed high in the crack to reach the jug that marks the end of difficulties. Now traverse left on a horizontal crack to a nice belay ledge.

Descent: Make one more little pitch up 20ft. from this belay and rap off of a tree with slings. There are two more trees with slings to get you down with a single 50m.

Protection 

Rack up to #3 Camalot. A single 50m rope works fine.


Photos of Ignominity Slideshow Add Photo
Ben Mottinger up the first pitch.
Ben Mottinger up the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO
Once again right-side-up, Jason Haas surmounts the roof on P2 of Ignominity, on the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2/2007.
Once again right-side-up, Jason Haas surmounts the...
Ben again, going through the crux.
Ben again, going through the crux.
Mark Speiker getting into the 3rd Pitch of Ignominity.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
Mark Speiker getting into the 3rd Pitch of Ignomin...
Ben, approaching the first roof on the second pitch.
Ben, approaching the first roof on the second pitc...
Jason Haas's leg tries to figure out which way to go once flopped in below the roof of Ignominity P2. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/2007.
Jason Haas's leg tries to figure out which way to ...
Myke Komarnitsky turning the flake on pitch 3 for the 10b variation.
Myke Komarnitsky turning the flake on pitch 3 for ...
Tony Bubb leads P2 of 'Ignominity (5.9)' on Eldo's West Ridge in 2003. Photo by Joseffa Meir.
Tony Bubb leads P2 of 'Ignominity (5.9)' on Eldo's...

Comments on Ignominity Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2009
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

On pitch 3 there is a variation that heads right through a thin crack (10b). There is an old 0.25in. bolt on the face above.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

There is YET ANOTHER variation (**) called "Ignore Me" (FA Bubb, Spieker, Fall 1996) through the roof 3 meters left of the 3rd pitch of ignominity. This 5.10 variation is rated R for the face above, which has no available protection, but is only 5.7
By Chris Cavallaro
Feb 6, 2002

When we did this, we started to the left of the first pitch, and did the 1st and 2nd combined into one nice pitch, climbing past the trees. Definitely a better way. You can also rap from the 2nd pitch by traversing left to a rap station (under Sooberb), or finish with the last pitches of Long John. Very fun and steep!
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 2, 2003

Tony, I can't seem to place your "Ignore me" variation.... the pictures to me look like the standard roof exit on pitch 3. Can you clarify?

My two shakes: seems like this route deserves an 's' rating to me. P1's 5.7-5.8 moves are above a #3 Camalot (with a shoulder runner if you're smart), with potential to deck on the ledge below if you screw up the unclear sequence up to the tree.

Pitch 3: While a #4 would probably have made me feel better, I would have been in for a nice bloody swing back into the blocky slot if I had blown any of the moves into the horiz. slot and over the roof. Also, that initial blocky slot is scary; climb gingerly, especially around the big vertical spike in the middle that is so tempting for hands and feet.

This route is FUN! So typical eldo climbing; strange sequences to descipher.

The beta for P3 (since my partner and I looked at it ~8 times before sending it); set up high into the horiz. slot, and then reach for a postive edge inside the slot on the roof. That's the hold that lets you rock over onto your placed foot on the corner.
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 5, 2003

I'd agree with Myke and suggest that pitch two has some pretty serious fall potential as well, small and hard to get gear in the steep section kept my full attention. Fun route though!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 8, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

There is a small crack in the topo in the 'new book' just right of the main line. That is the 10b _thin crack_ which is actually about 5.12b and has a bolt (old button head) to protect the moves. Further right of that, and DIRECTLY above the pitch to the roof with NO TRAVERSE is a horn above the roof. No crack to speak of in my memory until you pull that.. That is Ignominity.

To pull onto this ledge and work right ~ 3 meters more and pull the bulge on a few secure holds is what we originally called 'Ignore Me.' Mark and I originally called this 'The Beach' for his beached whale move onto the shelf from which he rolled over to grab the spur of rock to pull the roof moves on Ignominity. The pictures I posted are are taken from below, by me of Mark following, as I lead continuously through that roof, to a tree [above], placed and anchor and rapped down prior to his following the pitch on Ignominity.

To refresh my memory, Jason Haas and I went back on 3/2/07 and did both again. Rather than do the awkward moves up on Ignominity first and then go left on the crowded ledge to pull the bulge, I just started from the chossy ledge 3 M left of Ignominity. Easy enough, but a little runout. It continues up directly to an ending point with a second crux on a sharp horizontal mantle into a slightly scooped slab to finish about a meter and a half left of Ignominity.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun second pitch. A yellow Alien protected the crux (if my memory serves me correctly). Steep and worthy.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Racking up to a #4 Camalot will make the beginning of the 3rd pitch more comfortable for you. You'll have opportunity to use it on the other 2 pitches, too.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2005

I climbed this today, and found the second pitch to be fantastic, but we were mystified trying to find the third pitch. We ended up climbing something directly above the rappel tree that was very easy--about 5.6--and didn't match the description given here at all. Rossiter has no topo--can someone describe where the pitch is in relation to the rappel tree?
By S. Kimball
Mar 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Toughest 5.9 in Eldo. Tricky gear also.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 14, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Repeated this today after a 4-year interlude. Self-belayed it in one 70m pitch. Had about 1 foot of rope to spare. Great climb with lots of hard moves. Was a little shakey in a couple of places, but thought the gear was all good. A #4 Friend and a trick brass nut protects well the first hard move below Sick Flake. At the P3 "roof" you can stretch and get an HB offset at the lip before committing out left. To make that insecure move out left I threw my left leg to head level and heel toed deep in the slot, Then pulled my butt onto the ledge for a no-hands rest. You can get a good cam here near the lip (red Alien or 0.4 Camalot) and then more pieces above the lip if you're willing to hang out on the jug and place them.
By shad O'Neel
Nov 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you go left of the first tree there is a cool, steep corner system that protects well and is a bit less wandery than going right. We also didn't figure out the third pitch and did the easy slot above the rap tree. Gives reason for a repeat. Really good route, much more solid than it appears from below, excellent climbing, with committing but protectable cruxes.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Good route that is much better than it looks from below. At the first tree I went up and left over a fun roof via a crack and jugs-this is a bit more direct than going right. Ivan's comments are right on: a # 4 Friend and a # 5 BD stopper (tricky placement) protects the tricky moves getting to the small tree. Overall, the moves on this route plus the gear kept my full attention.
By Doug Redosh
Nov 19, 2006

Would agree with Michael Komarnitsky's comment back in 2003. I led the first pitch, and the last moves to the tree are a bit committing, above a #3 Camalot and small wire. I chickened and belayed at the small tree to the left. This was OK for my partner to lead the 2nd pitch.
The 2nd pitch is beautiful!
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 5, 2007

As for the variations of on the 3rd pitch - Ignore Me 5.10b (5.7 R) starts roughly 10ft. to the left of the awkward wide slot of the original line. You can go up the easy ramp of the rotten band, then climb a short face on jugs to reach the shelf that continues out left just below the roof of the original line. This will place you just right of a gully. There is a thin seam that widens into a fingercrack. If you're tall (6ft.) you can reach a bomber fingerlock and pull through the crack that way. If you're shorter you'll have to do some face moves to get up to it. Once the crack ends, there's a runout 5.6/5.7 face for about 25ft. In the route description above, I believe he describes traversing off the route at a narrow band below a final headwall, but I took the original route over that headwall on huge jugs, no harder than 5.9-. Ignore Me goes over the headwall 10ft. left of that, just right of the gully. There is a horizontal crack where you can sink a sideways handjam then mantle onto the slabby face above. This will place you on a big ledge with a tree as for the original line. The rap anchor tree will be slightly left of where both the regular and variation finish.

As for the variation to the right with the bolt: We discussed the Rossiter variation and felt that he went through the roof of the original line, then moved right into a shallow, right-facing dihedral. Following the single bolt to the right, however, will take you to this dihedral, but via a much harder ascent. I think pulling past the bolt on the bad slopers (bring a brush to clean the lichen) to a microedge felt about 5.12b. This would take you through the roof on the right through the small crack then up past the bolt, which was definitely not 5.10b, but very fun.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Sep 8, 2009

70m rope one pitch. Not a problem.