Type: Trad, Aid, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter Nov 16 2001
Page Views: 1,892 total · 11/month
Shared By: Paul Ross on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1)begin with TCU's up the obvious crack then up to #6 friends to surmount the roof at its top.5.9,C3,100' p2 Continue up a wide crack with #3.5 through #4 friends. then an overhanging crack to a good ledge and belay .5.9 C2 80'P3 A short bolt ladder leads up and right to reach a traverse line of slabs and pockets. Traverse about40' to a groove ,passing a drilled angle piton and one bolt.when the overhanging crack is reached just below the top ,wriggle through a tight hole to the summit. Anchors for the belay and rappel are 60' to the east(right)5.7 C1 120'Hike to the western summit to fine views and register.Descent Rap anchors are directly above P3 belay;ay . Make one single rope rap to the chimney belay ,then one double rope rap to the start of P1.More anchors for a final rap are 50' to the east.

Location Suggest change

The route is approximately 600' left of The Not Road Taken.From the flat rock parking area walk directly north to the Butte and behind the short fat tower the FA party fourth classed up two short chimneys. When the ledge and slabs below the cliff proper are reached traverse the ledges to the right for about 200' to the base of the very impressive corner crack of the first pitch. The climb has excellent situations.

Protection Suggest change

Standard desert rack with extra friends #3.5 through #4 Two #5 and two #6. Four wire hangers(or stoppers)Two 60m ropes

Photos

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