if you could climb a different place each month
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Someone threw the idea to me of trying to do a different climbing trip each month for an entire year so i'm trying to put together a list of places to go if this idea becomes reality. |
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Assuming ice climbing is on. My list in my perfect world, within the US and Canada. |
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To be honest, it would be better to progress to .9 or .10 ish trad and .11 ish sport at your local crags before investing all the time and money in travel, unless you got lots of both to burn. Not to say you shouldn't explore some, but 12 road trips in 12 months hunting for 5.6 crack climbs is time spent driving to a lot of places that cannot really be enjoyed at those grades, instead of time spent getting stronger. At least that's the case west of the Rockies. Take the creek or the forks- start at about .10. Or the voo or jtree, where the 7's and 8's can be shit your pants scary and/or downright brutal... I guess there's always Cat in the Hat? |
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January - Joshua Tree. Endless rock. |
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I agree with JMO. While I would personally love to put together a list of dream places to visit for the next 12 months, you should really work on getting better and working up to the 5.10 level in trad and 5.11 in sport before starting globe trotting. You really won't get quite the same enjoyment out of it if you're limited to the easy routes. AS JMO said, there are a lot of places that don't have any easy routes, and some other crags may have easy routes, but they all suck. Therefore, you'll spend a lot of time traveling and won't get to climb very many routes. If you're in it for the traveling experience, then dive in! If you decide to do it now, I think a couple of good places for you to explore that I know have good easy climbing are Seneca (practice building anchors first) and the Frankenjura. The Red River Gorge also has some decent easy routes, but it also is much better at the harder grades. Maybe try the Gunks. |
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All Killer No Filler wrote: (other than Old Rag; amazing climbing but it's the ninth circle of hell in the summer)Haha. So, so true. |
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JMo wrote:To be honest, it would be better to progress to .9 or .10 ish trad and .11 ish sport at your local crags before investing all the time and money in travel, unless you got lots of both to burn. Not to say you shouldn't explore some, but 12 road trips in 12 months hunting for 5.6 crack climbs is time spent driving to a lot of places that cannot really be enjoyed at those grades,I agree... Perhaps JMo is setting the bar a bit high at .10 trad, but .6/.7 trad is extremely limiting. Many places like Indian Creek don't offer much under 5.10 (although, it you can lead 5.9 trad elsewhere, you can lead 10 at the Creek... because the Creek is the Creek...) I think several places start having a decent number of good routes starting in the 5.8 and above range. 5.7 could work at other areas, but few places have amazing lines 5.6 and below. Instead of going on numerous road trips, I would go to the one or two places where you can practice at your current grade and get stronger. The Gunks, for example, has tons of lines 5.6 and below. Rather than going on 5 different trips, spend a month there, working through the 5.6 and 5.7 lines until maybe you get comfortable leading 5.8. In the colder months, I would go to Joshua Tree... another great playground with a ton of easier lines (and hard scary lines too if you work up to that). Find a good sport area that has lots of easier lines (5.10 and below) and work on becoming stronger until you can comfortably lead 5.10. Rumney and Shelf Road come to mind (Smith rocks is fun, but I think it might be scary/limiting at the lower grades). Red Rocks might also be a good destination, due to its large number of easier trad lines and soft sport lines. |
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Your list should include: Devils Lake, Petenwell, the Hollow, LaCrosse, Barn Bluff, Taylor's Falls, Jackson Falls, Tettegouche, and Pictured Rocks, and the Red. Tettegouche is a touch far, but worth it. |
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For 5.6 and less trad the Gunks are great. There are a lifetime of amusing 5.3 and 5.4 multi-pitch routes to say the least. Gunks are good in spring and fall, too many people and humidity in the summer. |