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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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If You Can't Do It Glue It 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 463
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Dec 28, 2008

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Peter Dickens on If You Can't Do It, Glue It

Description 

This line has fun movement but the difficulties are short and the rock is sub-par even for dirt wall. A quick crux off the ground passing the second and third bolts leads to substantially easier ground and the mid anchors. 12a to here.

From the great rest on the ledge continue up the right facing dihedral passing a hidden bolt. At the top of the dihedral snag a nice rest on top of the now detached flake, clip another bolt, and pull the hard, reach dependent crux. After the crux continue on smaller holds past another bolt to the top of the wall and the anchors.

I found the crux really hard with this so I'm going with the original grade of 12d. Perhaps it is easier for taller people or maybe I was missing something.

I also found the crux moves scary as I had my foot cammed behind the flake making for a potentially bad fall, so I hung 6ft of draws off the last bolt so I could clip high before entering the crux section.


Location 

The 2nd route right of red tag sale.


Protection 

bolts



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Peter Dickens on If You Can't Do It, Glue It
Peter Dickens on If You Can't Do It, Glue It
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