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If tendon in ring finger is tweaked, can I still train other fingers?
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Jan 21, 2014
Hanging Judge in CCC.
So I tweaked my ring finger bouldering ... yet again. At least this time it seems pretty mild and didn't hear the dreaded 'pop' I did last time. It did not swell and only have pain when applying force to the ring finger. I've been doing the hot/cold bath, power puddy, massage, ect treatments trying to expedite this. I'm crazy bummed about this. Especially because I'm in the middle of a hang board / campus board training routine that I was seeing good results with.


Anyway my question: Are the tendons of the middle and finger finger connected? I ask because I also feel minor discomfort in my middle finger when I put weight on it. And (probably stupid question) can I continue to train the unaffected fingers on a hang board to keep my strength up?
Andy B
Joined Aug 21, 2013
84 points
Jan 21, 2014
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Sorry to hear you're tweaked Andy. The sad news is that rest is good for what ails you. You can keep fiddling and delay your recovery, or just gut it out and do nothing for a while and let it heal. Tape the joint or tape the bad finger to another digit if you want, but the reality is the same. With luck, you'll be back in a month. Be careful. Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
Joined Jan 14, 2003
401 points
Jan 21, 2014
It's the tendon pulleys, not the tendons that are frequently injured. The pain in your middle finger is probably a separate injury. I've worked the uninjured fingers before with no ill effect; in fact an argument could be made that it may aid in the healing of the injured finger. Of course if any type of training or climbing causes pain at the injury site then I wouldn't continue. marty funkhouser
Joined Dec 8, 2007
34 points
Jan 21, 2014
I've popped several pulleys over the years, and maybe I should have rested, but what else is there to do besides climb???

My solution is to "mummy " tape the bad finger so I can't use it while climbing, I keep taping for 3 or so months. It slowed me down enough to keep me off the really hard stuff, while still getting my other fingers stronger. If you have 2 bad fingers on the same hand you might just have to stop.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 21, 2014
Hanging Judge in CCC.
I just injured it on Sunday so I think I'll wait at least a week before I see how it feels training the unaffected fingers. It's just too hard to stop climbing all together. Thanks for advice. Andy B
Joined Aug 21, 2013
84 points
Apr 21, 2014
How did it go for you? Did you climb on the injured finger and did it recover?

I just injured my A2 pulley on the middle finger, but it's super mild compared to my last pulley injury. I'm wondering how long if at all I should stay off it.
Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Joined Jan 18, 2014
74 points


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