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If I Only Had A Brain
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Wall Of Oz
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Cowardly Lion, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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I'm Melting S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If I Only Had A Brain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Equipped by Nate Renner and Greg Parker First Ascent by Greg Parker |
| Page Views: | 683 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Parker on Dec 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This route typifies how the desire to put in a route over-rides your common sense. Nate Renner and I accessed this route from a muddy gully on the top of the cliff in the rain. I tied into a tree at the lip of the cliff (about 200ft. off the ground) and belayed Nate as he traversed out a skinny ledge and sunk in a "bad" anchor. One nerve-wracking full rope length rappell brought him to where he put in the anchor for the route. When I got back down, he told me that I had to jug up the line to get our ropes. Did I mention that all this happened in the rain? That's how the route got its name.
It was all worth it. This excellent route is the far left route on the wall and climbs up the gently overhanging rock on good pockets and edges. The route name also applies to the onsight climber, it's very sequential. The fourth clip in the middle of the crux is fairly difficult.
It was all worth it. This excellent route is the far left route on the wall and climbs up the gently overhanging rock on good pockets and edges. The route name also applies to the onsight climber, it's very sequential. The fourth clip in the middle of the crux is fairly difficult.
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