|Wall of the Trundling Trolls
(Referred to in the guidebook as Ethics are for Maggots)
The original route name has been restored to this climb (due to a clarifying conversation with one of the first ascentionists.) Although the original start for this route un-aesthetically began by ascending 20 feet of low-angled, grassy/dirty rock to gain the ledge for traversing 20 feet to the right to reach the good climbing (done with this start it barely deserves 2 stars), it is highly recommended to use the start of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy for quality, sustained climbing and far less rope-drag. This route was recently cleaned, and is a multi-cruxed, challenging, and quality line! With the direct start, this line may be a candidate for all three stars. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)
Start by climbing up the prominent right-leaning crack of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy, to a point approximately six feet below the location where the parallel crack to its left originates. There is a tiny roof out left at this point. Long-runner the protection, step out left under this roof, protect with small TCU’s, and move up (first crux) a shallow left-facing corner past a fixed pin to a jug that helps gain the left crack which comprises the remainder of the route. The second and third cruxes come during and after the next big roof, and end at a ledge. A final short, steep wall harboring one last crux leads to the top anchors.
Upper left end of the wall.
Pro to 4"
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 12, 2009
Talked to Dave Jones about this route and Hairlip... today. He also had interesting FA stories about Stampede and Absinthe... on Sheepshead dome in the stronghold.
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2009
Yeah, I liked those stories, too. Dave is a hell of a cool guy. :)