If Alpine draws are for trad...

If Alpine draws are for trad so shoulder length runners can reduce drag and walking out pro, why does nearly every trad video I watch seem to show experienced leaders using quick draws almost exclusively even when the route wanders?

well then

alpine draws are only for alpine and trad draws are only for trad and sport draws are only for sport and quick draws are only for quick climbing.

The length of every connection of the rope to the protection requires consideration no matter what style of climbing. The various names attached really have nothing to do with the purpose.

Some sport routes need a 24 or 48 inch runner here and there. Some alpine routes need no runner at all here and there.

Stop taking the terms so literally.

Go climb.

Well greg....who peed in your wheaties?

For the same reason that very few trad videos of good climbers show the leader rappelling off the route instead of lowering. Or wearing a daisy chain or PAS. Or a helmet. Because most trad videos are not of noobs.

Seriously it's because usually on hard trad climbs that you've projected (and are not onsighting), you know what placements are coming up, and if you do not have to extend a piece three feet, it is simply easier to use a quickdraw.

The only exception would be for finicky nut or TCU placements in which the stiffness of a dogbone can actually push the placement out.

zekem wrote:Well greg....who peed in your wheaties?

"Use slings to extend your rope so that it runs without rubbing. Slings will reduce drag and help protect your lifeline in the event of a fall."

rockandice.com/lates-news/r…

Interesting photo from Palisade Head:

mountainproject.com/images/…

Because only folks who dont climb too much or only climb moderates think that you can only use quickdraws for sport

Quickdraws are easier to clip when yr pumped silly ... And they dont bunch up on yr harness

Most experienced trad climbers who climb stuff where theres a pump clock ticking carry a mix of draws depending on the situation

Theres experienced climbers who even bring quickdraws into the ... Gasp ... Alpine

you can see the quickdraw this gumbay packs up for a himalayan alpine climb ... obviously he doesnt listen to da intrawebz forums !!!

Greg D wrote:well then alpine draws are only for alpine and trad draws are only for trad and sport draws are only for sport and quick draws are only for quick climbing. The length of every connection of the rope to the protection requires consideration no matter what style of climbing. The various names attached really have nothing to do with the purpose. Some sport routes need a 24 or 48 inch runner here and there. Some alpine routes need no runner at all here and there. Stop taking the terms so literally. Go climb.

I always carry 4 possible lengths of draws when I climb anything. Biner only (no draw), quick draw for short extended, non-full length alpine draw for mid level, and fully extended alpine draw for when I need alot of room.

And if we are on multi pitch I bring even more crap for building anchors.

Like others have said when you are climbing stuff you don't know it is always better to have gear and not need it than have to run something out extra 15ft because you left that one piece in the car (done that a few times, and probably will still do it when i am being lazy). When I go to climb in areas I know all the routes I will be climbing I tend to leave alot of crap I know i don't need in the car.

I use regular draws as much as possible as well. I also bring 3 - 5 "alpine draws and even one or two with lockers occasionally.

+1
for not wanting the bunch + tangle of 15 alpine draws on your harness

Greg D wrote:Stop taking the terms so literally.