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 ADVANCED
The North Ridge (of Dinosaur Mountain).
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Audiophile T 
Beat Down, The T 
Blank Sheets T 
Get Down On It T 
Idly I De-Ice T 
North Buttress, The T 
North Ridge, The T 

Idly I De-Ice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 12/1/12
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces N/NW
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 2, 2012

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Tony B atop the roof on Idly I De-Ice (5.9) after ...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is exactly what it looks like: moderate jugs and edges up to an overhanging handcrack through a dihedral. The slightly closed section and pod up top give it a distinct crux just before the finish.
Climb up moderate terrain (5.5?) through some jams, jugs, edges, and ledges to reach the base of an overhanging, right-facing corner. Place a hand-sized cam and head up on solid jams for the top of the corner. The top (crux) is a brief variation in the crack size. Top out, place a directional and head 10' to climber's right to a tree and gear belay.

A sling and biner going from the tree to over the edge allows for a rap back to near the base.


Location 

This route lies about 1/3 of the way up the back side (West/Northwest) of the ridge. Hike up from the South end until you come into view of a notch in the cliff, facing West rather than North. There are 3 climbs in this notch, with the obvious. right-facing. overhanging dihedral and handcrack being Idly I De-Ice.


Protection 

A set of cams in the hand sizes and a few above or below.



Photos of Idly I De-Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Tony B on the FA of the big overhang on Idly I De-Ice (5.9).  Photo by Micah S. Nov 2012.
Tony B on the FA of the big overhang on Idly I De-...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2012

The Nameske