Idly I De-Ice
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 12/1/12|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces N/NW|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Dec 2, 2012|
Tony B atop the roof on Idly I De-Ice (5.9) after ...
This climb is exactly what it looks like: moderate jugs and edges up to an overhanging handcrack through a dihedral. The slightly closed section and pod up top give it a distinct crux just before the finish.
Climb up moderate terrain (5.5?) through some jams, jugs, edges, and ledges to reach the base of an overhanging, right-facing corner. Place a hand-sized cam and head up on solid jams for the top of the corner. The top (crux) is a brief variation in the crack size. Top out, place a directional and head 10' to climber's right to a tree and gear belay.
A sling and biner going from the tree to over the edge allows for a rap back to near the base.
This route lies about 1/3 of the way up the back side (West/Northwest) of the ridge. Hike up from the South end until you come into view of a notch in the cliff, facing West rather than North. There are 3 climbs in this notch, with the obvious. right-facing. overhanging dihedral and handcrack being Idly I De-Ice.
A set of cams in the hand sizes and a few above or below.
Tony B on the FA of the big overhang on Idly I De-...
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