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 ADVANCED
The Boulderado
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fistula T,TR 
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 
Ho Hum T,TR 
Idle Hands T,TR 
Jam It T,TR 
Jam It (Variation)  T 
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 
Mons T,TR 
Qs S,TR 
Suite 11 T,TR 

Idle Hands 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Possibly Richard Rossiter, solo, 1987
Page Views: 3,570
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Jam It, 8. 2. Ho Hum, 4. 3. Idle Hands, 6. 4. M...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Protection 

For TR, a 10 foot sling, and smaller nuts will set up a good anchor. Light rack, mid-sized cams.


Photos of Idle Hands Slideshow Add Photo
A: Idle Hands. B: Mons. C: Q's.
BETA PHOTO: A: Idle Hands. B: Mons. C: Q's.
Nickie Kelly approaching the steep headwall near t...
Nickie Kelly approaching the steep headwall near t...
Too much Fun.
Too much Fun.
Top of Ho Hum.
Top of Ho Hum.
A close view of the route.
A close view of the route.

Comments on Idle Hands Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 5, 2001

This is a great first route for beginners. A little bit of face at the bottom, a lot of crack work.It can be topped, but need some long slings, a 60m rope, and a willingness to lay into the belay a little since the friction on the rope is pretty strong.
By Brendan Sheehan
Jun 25, 2002

The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams.
By Stephen Allen
Sep 13, 2003

I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right).
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2003

A nice obvious line on solid rock. A nice practice route for the beginner leader, though I found it a little tricky to protect up at the final more vertical crux, but a couple of small nuts seemed to do the trick. And yes, rope drag can be a bit of an issue.
By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 20, 2003

Very fun route! Leave all the mid- and large-sized gear behind, though. I led this with a half-set of wallnuts, smaller aliens, and one #1 camalot. And that was sewing it up.
By Sarge
May 28, 2007

You do not need the long runner anymore. There are great bolted anchors at the top. Lead it, don't TR. It's more fun.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2007

Richard Rossiter placed four bolt anchors at the Boulderado in March 2007 at the request of The Spot gym. See my comment and Photo. Richard has the first known ascents of these routes on the Boulderado; see Richard's comment.
By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of the bolts at the top of Idle Hands is missing its hanger and rap ring - as of July 2, 2007.
By Tits McGee
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2009

Good line - Protection not always obvious, used a #1 BD out to the right with a 4' runner to protect the final moves to hangers.
By Erik in NC
From: Greensboro, NC
Oct 1, 2009

Fun route. Protection can be a little non-obvious and I ended up using a number of horizontal small-cam and tricam placements. Probably would have held, but I wouldn't have wanted to try them. Anchors in good condition.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Awesome! Take the rock quality and all those cool chickenheads from The Dome and tilt it towards vertical, that is this climb. Slabby start to steep and juggy towards the anchors. Good pro throughout, lead it!
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2014

Good protection, I used all cams, but partly bc my partner doesn't like removing nuts. Even though I placed a #3, you could easily do the route with nothing larger than a #1 or 2. A single rack is totally adequate. Bring shoulder length runners though, and watch your rope line as it passes over the blocks.
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Surprisingly fun climb for the grade.
My son's 1st trad lead, 2nd lead ever. He sewed it up with a couple small Camalots and several nuts.
Nice easy climb with almost vertical headwall at top. 5.6 on the upper half, easier lower down.