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Matt Lloyd sending Idiot's Roof after cleaning it ...
This trad route starts on a flat bit of ground 20 feet uphill from "Head Up Dirty" just downhill from the monster roof. Start below a single bolt. Climb past the single bolt and a challenging boulder problem to a thin, right-facing corner with a finger-size crack in the back. Climb through a juggy roof with decent gear to a left-facing corner (which makes up the left side of the monster roof). Clip a bolt next to the crack, and climb higher than you think before busting right on jugs to another bolt and then to a bolted belay 15 feet, just around the corner.
Don't get suckered into climbing through the roof to early, there is a bolt in the roof for another unfinished climb.
I found this route without anchors and with lots of choss. As of 4/15/12, I (Matt Lloyd) have added anchors (and other pitch above it) as well as cleaning it up. The route is worth the hike and will certainly get better with as people climb it.
It is a little dirty, but it has steep, well-protected, trad climbing.
From the anchors, you can climb the next amazing pitch, "Everyday Struggle", 5.10d, which goes to the top of the wall.
This route starts on a flat bit of ground 20 feet uphill from "Head Up Dirty" just downhill from the monster roof.
A single rack with draws and gear from #0.3 to 2 Camalots.
Jose busting it out. Photo by Keith North.
Jose coming up to the anchors and the belay for th...
Photo by Keith North.
BETA PHOTO: The anchors are just off the photo.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
May 27, 2012
When this route gets just a little cleaner, it will be a genuine classic. Much steeper than it looks from the ground. Wish I had read the beta about going higher than you think in the crack. Tried to exit directly past the bolt. Fail.
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2012
Got sucked into going too high above the second bolt and ended up traversing right at anchor level rather than next bolt. Rock was fragile, but climbing was in low 5.10 range.