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Idiot's Deluxe 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg ?
Page Views: 1,885
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 15, 2008

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun addition to the crag. Its crux climbs like an easy version of Flesh for Lulu. Slightly overhanging with bad holds and some good ones too.

Start just at the top of the newly added stairs at the left end of the crag. Climb to the left of the big oak tree. the route starts easy and climbs like a good low angle warm up to a ledge where things steepen. make your way between crimps to incuts and even a few jugs. The feet are right where you need them as youhead for the horizontal break. When you hit the break the style of climbing changes as you pass a small overhang on juggy holds (but its a little tricky). clip the chains and say. WORD!!!

Location 

The far left end of the P Wall. Just at the top of the stairs the lead to the Meadows. this route climbs left of the big oak tree.

Protection 

bolts (10ish) to lower offs.


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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008

Lee you are correct by saying Jim Shimberg has the first ascent.
By jcullem
Nov 22, 2009

This is a sweet route and one of the best routes in area. Really long, so you get full value.
Easy and fun climbing up a slab leads to a steep headwall where the climbing gets harder, and then a bit harder. Hang it out a bit, crank through the crux, and finish on easier, but pumping, moves to the anchor. This fine route avoids the wetness problem that plagues many routes on this wall. Three stars.
By Hannah W
May 3, 2010

I agree! it only gets 1 star in the new guidebook, but it deserves way more - a really cool climb!! And I like how it is really sustained, it keeps you working to the top.

the crux is like a training wall for flesh
By S. Neoh
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

IMHO, the first 45 feet of climbing is easy but only 1 star in quality. The last 45 feet of climbing is really good, sustained, and quite tricky for me to figure out all of the correct sequences. For me, the top half of the climb is 3-star in quality at 10c/d, but only if one nails all the correct sequences.

Oh, Hannah, sorry, cruxy section of this climb felt very differnt to me than the cruxy section of Flesh (from what I can remember :)).
By Franz Buzawa
Oct 4, 2010

I'd give this route a solid 10c rating. I found the upper portion of the headwall a bit confusing because there seemed to be 2, perhaps even 3, distinct approaches to the final moves due to all of the caulked up holds. Nevertheless, a fantastic climb and certainly one of the best in the area.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jun 27, 2012

How does the crux of this route compare to the crux of Sesame Street?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 27, 2012

As i remember, Idiot's is more of a pump factor with moves adding up as you go. Sesame is more crux then rest, crux then rest, there for the moves don't add up to a big pump... challenge wise it's right on in my opinion, idiot's being 1 letter grade harder... have fun on it :)
By S. Neoh
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I second Lee's description. I also agree with Franz that there seems to be two or three ways to climb the top 1/3 of the route. I found the crux to be somewhat the same as Waimea's but more tricky. Ths route will likely test your route reading abilities and how well you can hang on in the overhanging section below the anchors. Enjoy.
By losbill
Oct 22, 2012

I do believe there are three ways of dealing with the crux defined as from the beginning of the business to gaining the good holds above the horizontal. I think, based upon personal experience and observation, 98% of climbers choose a sequence other than what I think Jim intended when he put it up. Which I think is less strenuous than what most people do and not terribly obvious. Hint: Chalk is not always your best guide. Someone ought to ask Jim how he did it when he put it up. I would but I don't climb there anymore and have lost his cell #!!! Just curious.