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Dylan Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Along the Watchtower 
Blood on the Tracks 
Blowin' in the Wind 
Bob Can't Climb 
Changing of the Guard 
Idiot Wind 
Knocking on Heaven's Door 
Mighty Quinn, The 
Million Dollar Bash 
One More Cup of Coffee 
Planet Waves 
Tweeter and Monkey Man 
Watching the River Flow 

Idiot Wind 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Friedrichs 1991
Page Views: 2,480
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 22, 2003
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Kody Watts in the business of Idiot Wind. photo Ma...


This discontinuous thin crack is located in the middle of the Dylan Wall. There is a three bolt anchor visible from below at about 80'. To the right is a long sustained crack in a left facing dihedral (Blood on the Tracks). There is a somewhat broken boulder directly behind the route. A pod at 8' takes a #3 Camalot. From there move up the thin crack with good rests to plug gear and ponder your next moves. There were no moves that felt 11c and the route is extremely well protected. Enjoyable from start to finish.


One each 1-3 Camalots, plenty of TCUs or Aliens. Slider nuts work well on this pitch but are not essential.

Photos of Idiot Wind Slideshow Add Photo
Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind. <br />Photo by: Frosty Weller
Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind.
Photo by: Frosty Weller
Deaun on the lower portion of Idiot Wind.  Photo by Terry Murphy
Deaun on the lower portion of Idiot Wind. Photo b...
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By nolteboy
Feb 23, 2006

A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.

By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011

tricky, balancy cruxes with good gear.

a quiver of small cams with extra gray and purple camalots

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 6, 2013

Didn't feel 11c. There are some hard moves on the route, but no more than three in a row before you get to a hero hold or nice rest (lots of rests!). #1-#2 camalots (1), #3 camalot (2), bunch of TCUs purple-yellow.