Idiopathic 5.9- PG13
| 1,997 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, 700 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | ldsclimber on Mar 27, 2011 |
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idiopathic
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idiopathic- unknown origin 700' of moderate,dirty but fun and exciting climbing, that leads to a cool summit.The first pitch is the crux and has 17 bolts to chains. The second pitch has 10 bolts and crawls up a cool chimney-esk groove that has a really cool belay. It's a really cool pitch tambien!! Pitch three continues up the groove for 6 or so bolts then traverses out right at a 45 degree angle for thee bolts to a belay owl cove. Forth pitch continues up right on easy terrain to the summit.
Location The dyke just to the right of Groover. The first bolt is aprox. 20 ft up. Rap the route. Watch for rocks as you pull the ropes!!
Protection HELMET!!! 18QDs 4 expendable runners 2 60m ropes mandatory to rap off
AC looking for the origin
| austin stylin up P1
| Austin nearing the top of P1
| Chris headed up P2
| chris working his way up the slot
| chris belaying up Austin P2
| austin headed out rt on p3
| P3 Belay
| Chris on P4
| Lower Summit
| simi rapping off with 2 60m ropes
| P4 belay
| AC starting P1
| Prepping For The Climb
| RazRez leading the LONG first pitch. Climbing is ...
| RazRez leading the LONG first pitch. Climbing is ...
| RazRez leading the LONG first pitch. Climbing is ...
| GregC found a no-hands perch
| The second pitch belay. It has some pretty good l...
| First Belay Station
| Second Pitch.
| Crazy hangers at the belay station. Need to go ba...
| Pano from the first belay.
| Third belay station right after the "Owl Perch" tr...
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By bio From: mesa, az Mar 28, 2011
| The second pitch has 12 bolts, and I think Aaron meant extendable runners because I know I wouldn't want to throw any away! It's a fun climb with a great summit. |
By Fletch From: Scottsdale Apr 13, 2011
| Idiopathic is actually to THE RIGHT of the Groover!!! Do we know whose FA this is? |
By manuel rangel Apr 14, 2011 rating: 5.9 PG13
| Good gravy, not another scarefest! I have to get on it soon... |
By jbak Oct 30, 2011
| "owl cove" ??... haha... I like that. |
By ldsclimber From: Queen Creek AZ Oct 31, 2011
| I'm writing this from my roll-a-way bed in 4D of Banner Desert Med Center. I've been cooped up for 2 weeks while my wife and son recover from a DVT in the rt leg, and Porter coming 2 months early. Austin and Chris broke me out of the hospital at 0800 in Mesa on Sat. Afyer stopping for gas and breakfast, I was roped up and headed up Idiopathic by 1100 for a much needed break. These guys styled their way up the Courthouse as we climbed in a party of three. I led each pitch first, then pulled my rope and used it to get in better position for pictures. We were back at our packs by 1545 and driving out by 1600. I got back to the hospital by 1730 to my wife who was happy that I was happy:) I had a blast guys! Thanks for the belays and I hope you enjoy the pics. Lets get up to the East Verde before the snow:) |
By manuel rangel Nov 3, 2011 rating: 5.9 PG13
| Todd Foor and I climbed it yesterday. I think it was great fun and adventurous. I think it needs a few more ascents to clean the flaky stuff off. A bit in the middle of the third pitch the rock deteriorated on the face and I leaned left to the crack, not much more solid, but it gave me pause since I was a little ways above the bolt. The crack needs some cleaning there, I tossed off a bit. |
By Joe Cayer From: Mesa, Az Dec 30, 2011
| Wow!! This climb keeps you wondering what's going to stay and what's going to crumble away! Very exciting climb. You get some great stances with a lot of fragile moves to get to them. I lead with 3 others following, after the 1st pitch, my second decided to head back to the ground due to being terrified! Three of us continued, hoping that we'd find more stable terrain above, we didn't. Well bolted, but a bit heady regardless. I think it may go up a grade after some more cleaning! |
By matt evans From: Gilbert, az Jan 2, 2012 rating: 5.9- PG13
| This was a pretty fun route. First two pitches are three star dirty, crumbly climbing. Some of the loose holds add to the mental fun factor. If rock was solid it could be rated a 5.8. Last two pitches are only necessary if you want a summit shot, not too exciting. One to two stars. I may just be a little bitter though since my phone dropped out of my pocket while rapping the final pitch. Screen on my fancy smart phone is broken and I lost my sd card somewhere -must have popped out (and my camera had tons of awesome climbing pictures on it). Looked for it for an hour but never found it. :( |
By Catherine Conner From: Phoenix, AZ Jan 16, 2012
| I thought this was really fun. It does have a crumble factor, but enjoyed it, good route. |
By Sayfe From: Scottsdale, az Feb 5, 2012
| Rope? Steve Tillery and I climbed it last weekened. Out rope got stuck in the rap and We could not get it. We are back at the base of the climb today, and the ropes are gone. If you retrieved them, please let us know. Email me: Sayfe@cox.net Great climb! |
By lou Feb 5, 2012
| not recomended.... rock is brittle, any hold can n did n will give. the route is bolted as if the rock were granite.. but with the generous spacing of the bolts and the crap rock this route is 5.9r after the fifthish bolt on the third pitch you cant see the next bolt.. anywhere to be found... the route does not logically go up, but traverses hard right... who would guess.. hmmmm needs a plaque with an arrow ( he he)... would be very hard to rap the route and retrieve your gear after the second pitch... I would climb the first two ,, rap,, and call it a day.... hit the groover, a much better climb. sayfe got your ropes off the route.. ill email ya... cheers... lou |
By GregC Feb 20, 2013
| The rock is lose but it's still a good route. You can drive almost to the base especially with 4wd. We stopped way too soon. The bolts are pretty good. The anchors aren't. A homemade hanger or other inventions. Also agree with the traverse... It needs a bolt to indicate there is more climbing up to the right. A nice route.. Good mix of climbing. Nice stemming section. If the anchors were better it would be a good route for an intro to multipitch for a solid 5.9 climber. |
By RazRez Feb 27, 2013
| GPS coordinates (WGS84 hddd.ddddd°) Start of Idiopathic: N33.46194 W113.35839 |
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