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Idiocy of an Odyssey
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress
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Black Pearl, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | an ascent, Jan 2015, DCuster & SRuff |
| Page Views: | 1,621 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | dave custer on Jan 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Wandering line aside, much excellent climbing. If the final pitches were as accessible as Ragged Edges, they would have a following.
P1 Up the left facing corner; more difficult than it looks. Traverse left on the spacious ledge to the oak tree stance below a finger crack that leads to an overhanging fist crack. The #5 camalot crack to the left is an alternate start at the same grade. ~30 meters, 5.10-
P2 Up the finger then fist crack. Belay on the rubble stance or continue on P3. Alternatively, step left, through and on oak trees; step across chasm to huecos and up P3. ~10 meters, 5.10-
P3 Step down left, and traverse left to the next, wide crack system. Up this to a belay at a ledge and an oak tree. ~30 meters, 5.7.
P4 Up the corner on the left side of the gulley system above the oak tree to a thin crack that angles left below a black headwall (it is possible to stay right and continue up the gulley; beware the agave top-out). From the left end of the headwall, ascend directly up. At the top of the headwall, walk back 10 meters to belay in oak trees. ~50 meters, 5.7.
P5 Up the obvious, daunting black gash. ~40 meters, 5.8
Descent
Easy scrambling up and right with a move or two of down-climbing will gain the Geronimo rappel anchors.
P1 Up the left facing corner; more difficult than it looks. Traverse left on the spacious ledge to the oak tree stance below a finger crack that leads to an overhanging fist crack. The #5 camalot crack to the left is an alternate start at the same grade. ~30 meters, 5.10-
P2 Up the finger then fist crack. Belay on the rubble stance or continue on P3. Alternatively, step left, through and on oak trees; step across chasm to huecos and up P3. ~10 meters, 5.10-
P3 Step down left, and traverse left to the next, wide crack system. Up this to a belay at a ledge and an oak tree. ~30 meters, 5.7.
P4 Up the corner on the left side of the gulley system above the oak tree to a thin crack that angles left below a black headwall (it is possible to stay right and continue up the gulley; beware the agave top-out). From the left end of the headwall, ascend directly up. At the top of the headwall, walk back 10 meters to belay in oak trees. ~50 meters, 5.7.
P5 Up the obvious, daunting black gash. ~40 meters, 5.8
Descent
Easy scrambling up and right with a move or two of down-climbing will gain the Geronimo rappel anchors.
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