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ideal Aid set up for Zion Walling
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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Nov 21, 2012
blah

I have been living in springdale for a year. I have done alot free climbing and am looking to get into Aiding. I primarily want to get to some more of the awesome free climbing. I have a bigish free rack but as far as Aiding stuff I have next to nothing. What should I have? what should I avoid? I dont want to spend a fortune, but I also dont really mind spending money on gear. I would like to get one or two sets of offset cams (offset TCU's and Fixe Aliens), brass offsets IMPS PeeNuts. You know stuff for weird flared Zion sandstone. However, if you have any ideas on what works best for aiders, ladders, easy daisy's, regular daisy's... stuff like that. I have used other peoples stuff. I have lead a couple walls and am just looking for my own stuff and dont want to go wrong and buy something worthless out of ignorance.

thanks in advance


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By AGParker
From San Angelo, TX
Nov 21, 2012

Check out supertopo.com. All the aid info you want is there.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Nov 21, 2012
blah

super useful thanks!


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By gunter
Nov 21, 2012

From my Zion experience I would definitely suggest Offset nuts (Peanuts are great). Offset Metollius master cams also work great for all those flaring cracks and pin scars. If you hauling, you definitely want a mini-traxion (light and cruiser). Other than that AGparker has it, supertopo has it zeroed in to a science...I also suggest bringing their exact gear selections as far as their guide books go...I have found that they are pretty spot on. Happy walling dude!


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By Bob Dobalina
Nov 25, 2012

No pins, nailing, or camhooking. Go clean whenever humanly possible. Pass it on...


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Nov 25, 2012
don't throw rocks

Bob Dobalina wrote:
No pins, nailing, or camhooking. Go clean whenever humanly possible. Pass it on...



Def no camhooking on sandstone. Super important. Don't forget the mandatory waiting period after a rainfall. You can sometimes get away with it when freeclimbing because unless you fall, you're never actually weighting the cams, but aiding will weight every placement in increase the chances of blowing out placements.

Nailing and pins are needed in some places, but not on any route you're going to be able to do for the first year or five.


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By Robby brower
Dec 2, 2012

i like bd aiders or the yates big wall ladder. personally, i like the bd aider for stepping up when climbing in a corner or going over a roof. the yates ladder is super comfortable with the spreader bar and really easy to step up in. i am not a big fan of the yates ladder to go over roofs.

for daisy chains i am a fan of metolious daisy chains, the regular kind, or bd dynex daisy chain (i think its nice if you have two different styles or colors). i think ultimately it just depends on choosing the right length. easy daises are best if you are jugging up the line, in that case, you might also want to consider easy aiders too.

as far as gear goes, i liked ball nuts for the aid crux of the touchstone wall buts thats the only time i have needed them. offsets and aliens are wonderful but i am guessing you already have that dialed. don't forget rivet hangers either.

you should also get, Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique very useful.

hope that helps dude!


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By Brassmonkey
Jan 10, 2013
Brass monkey

Bob Dobalina wrote:
No pins, nailing, or camhooking. Go clean whenever humanly possible. Pass it on...



Camhooking isnt considered clean? I thought it was for some reason, correct me if I'm wrong please. Also I haven't done aid on sandstone; do camhooks really degrade the rock that bad?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Jan 10, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Brassmonkey wrote:
Camhooking isnt considered clean? I thought it was for some reason, correct me if I'm wrong please. Also I haven't done aid on sandstone; do camhooks really degrade the rock that bad?

Camhooks are "clean" aid, but they will damage soft sandstone.


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jan 10, 2013
Artist Tears P3

I have a spare set of offset tcu's I can sell to you. They are great in sandstone pods, such as Zion. 5 in the set, say 30 bucks each. 150 plus postage. PM if interested.

Try to go light in Zion. Don't take the kitchen sink and learn to aid with care and a light tough. Buy the DVD, Clean Aid. Try to get efficient so that you can climb routes using the fix and blast methodology.

DMM offsets, particular alloy and the larger brass sizes work particularly well. I don't carry normal wires anymore.

A large cam or two, such as the BD 4.5 or 5 is typically a good investment as well.

Go with the two aider system from the start. Keep things simple.

Maybe check out Chris McNamara's new book: www.mountainproject.com/v/107957086

Have fun.


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jan 10, 2013
Artist Tears P3

Big wall videos:

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2038947/All-the-How-To-Big->>>


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Jan 10, 2013
blah

I think once I get some HB brass offsets, Peenuts, Imps, offset aliens, ballnuts.
I am done with aid pro. I also think that Yates and Fish will be providing my aiders and daisy's/Easy daisy's. I have done some Aiding on my own with others stuff, some A1-2 and one C3... never doing C3 ever again. i really only want to aid to get to good free pitches. I will not be doing anything that involves hauling...cause it sux

Thanks for the Input.


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By Chris Freye
From Seattle
Jan 10, 2013

I like the Yates Speed Wall Ladders. I like having ladders over etriers because you don't have to worry about having your foot on the correct side. Also the yates have a spreader bar which help the ladder from collapsing which is super nice. I have the Metolius bomber daisies and they work great. Don't forget the Fifi hook! I am also a big fan of the petzl ascenders. After doing a lot of research I picked those over the BD ones and I haven't regretted it at all.

Supertopo is a great place to read reviews and watch some of Chris McNamara's videos.


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By Brassmonkey
Jan 10, 2013
Brass monkey

csproul wrote:
Camhooks are "clean" aid, but they will damage soft sandstone.



Thanks for the clarification!


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By Wally
From Denver
Jan 10, 2013

Ballnuts in Zion (sandstone) would be scary. Maybe they work. I have always reached for another piece.

Wally


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