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Caudill Queen King Route (AKA Memorial Route)
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 72
votes
Routes in Slick Rock
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Caudill Queen King Route (AKA Memorial Route) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scenic Traction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slippery Slope T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Alan Queen, Abbott King and Kevin Caudill |
| Page Views: | 17,570 total · 84/month |
| Shared By: | Jacob Dolence on Sep 2, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
The crux comes on the 6th and 7th pitches which in my opinion both go at 5.8+. Take plenty of quickdraws because the crux is slabby, but the bolts are quite close together at the hard parts. On some of the easier pitches there is decent runout. All bolted anchors. Comes really close to the regular route at pitch 5 or so.
Additional user submitted route info:
Some more info on the pitches 1-5.7, 2-4th, 3-5.4, 4-5.7,5-5.8, 6-5.8+, 7-5.8, 8-5.7 (5.9 if you follow the bolt line over the roof and do not go left)
Additional user submitted route info:
Some more info on the pitches 1-5.7, 2-4th, 3-5.4, 4-5.7,5-5.8, 6-5.8+, 7-5.8, 8-5.7 (5.9 if you follow the bolt line over the roof and do not go left)
Location
Starts a little bit to the right of the regular route. Follow the trail past a big dihedral and then look up for the first bolt. The start is marked by a carin. The first bolt is hard to find so look carefully. You can either rap the route with double rope rappels or walk off to the right. The walk off is steep and requires some down climbing. Then some bushwhacking through the gully. It follows a trail the whole way back down to the base. An obvious landmark is looking at the high point and then walking a little bit to the right.
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