The technical crux is getting above the lip, it is...
Description
In the center of the east face on Window Rock is a fist crack that comes down into a large alcove. This is Expect No Mercy. Climb the steep face past a couple of bolts to the crack. Pull through this pumpy fist crack roof and jam to the two-bolt anchor.
Protection
Two (or three?) draws, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot (optional), #2 Camalot, a couple of long slings for the larger cams.
We felt it was easier to go right of the crack, using the finger rail. Then, jam a left hand jam and pop it. Good short route, but a rope eater.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Nice route and honestly the only one we did on the eastside. Summer days included wasps in the crack making upward progress tentative. Bouldery start with positive holds. Pulling the roof head-on was a bit of a problem (hung - dang!). If you don't have the juice to pull through using the hand crack look for positive holds to the left making it much easier. The handcrack above is fun but easy. 2 bolts, gear to 3 1/2", chain anchors.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 20, 2007
Dude(-ette)! You're givin' away key onsite beta here. For shame! I won me a steak dinner betting a partner he couldn't onsite that thing (and remained silent when he Z clipped the bolts, hee hee, pure evil).
The old anchor to this route used to be a sling stickin' out of the crack attached to something. That something, when dug out, turned out to be an old Dolt nut. Pretty cool!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Aug 20, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
I did the crack straight on and thought it was jingus™™. Had a heel hook and mucho wiggling to get over the "roof" while pulling on cupped hands and fists. 10b? Ok.... for 5.12 leaders. I was told that if I pitched I might have decked too.... kickAssss™ Upper crack is trivial.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 20, 2007
A cam or two, an attentive belay, and a bit of your supreme flexibility should work just fine...
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