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Routes in Decadent Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Adolescent Homosapien T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Another Greg Lowe Route (aka Preteen Sex) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lowe Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Lowe or Jay Goodwin |
| Page Views: | 3,962 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | icsteveoh on Aug 31, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a decently long route that starts up a crack and crosses over a small fin to the left and then continues up another crack/groove system.
Location
Located in the breadloaves in the higher elevation rock formations. The wall faces west and is exposed as the rest of city of rocks. Take the emery canyon road toward the end and make a left at the breadloaves. There is a big parking lot and a few campsites.
Walk down the tea kettle trail. It is located left of Carol's Crack. There is a picnic bench and a big boulder near the start. On the west face of the wall south of the breadloaves and bloody fingers basically on the other side of the provo wall.
Better yet, take a look at the picture.
There's a decent spot 10 feet near the top where you can set up a belay anchor and then belay your partner up and then scramble to the top and walk over to the belay chains. Says 2 rope rappel but center mark was on the ground when we rapp'd with a 60 m rope.
Walk down the tea kettle trail. It is located left of Carol's Crack. There is a picnic bench and a big boulder near the start. On the west face of the wall south of the breadloaves and bloody fingers basically on the other side of the provo wall.
Better yet, take a look at the picture.
There's a decent spot 10 feet near the top where you can set up a belay anchor and then belay your partner up and then scramble to the top and walk over to the belay chains. Says 2 rope rappel but center mark was on the ground when we rapp'd with a 60 m rope.
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