This is probably the best 5.10a trad crack climb at the city, with Thin Slice coming in a close 2nd. It is located on the east side of the Lower Breadloafs about 200ft from the large group parking lot.
The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.
What a great route. The best I have done at the City. Twin cruxes, variety of jams, good exposure. I definitely preferred the lieback start.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Sep 20, 2006
The lieback start is definitely more of a challenge when it is 40 degrees out and you can't feel your hands. This area is a bit of a wind tunnel from the western winds in the morning.
You can lower off and clean this climb with a 70M rope.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 11, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Technical and pretty. A very long single pitch for the area.
if you like bloody fingers, try white lightning or double cracks. white lightning is for me the best 10.a crack climb i have done at the city. animal cracker is another good one.
There is a pretty good stance at the beginning to reach up and place gear that will get you through most of the crux, so the lieback didn't seem too bad. Outstanding route!
By Nicholas Yaskoff From: Salt Lake City, UT May 18, 2009 rating: 5.10a
In my opinion Bloody Fingers is highly overrated. I lead it after reading all the great reviews and was disappointed. Perhaps if I had no expectations it would have been different, however, there wasn’t a single move or feature on the route that caught my attention. A much more aesthetic and enjoyable route is Thin Slice (10a).
Fun climb. Go with what you know for the start be it layback or jambs on the traditional start. Any ideas on the start from the right on the angled 'flakes'? Fun from the right but a bit dicey on the pro.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
