what a blast, this is from the top looking across...
Description
This route is on the formation just left of Steinfell's Dome when viewed from the parking area. It climbs the spine facing the road in 4? pitches. Find the trail that leads towards Steinfell's, and traverse leftwards on trail to reach a this subsidary formation (called Jackson's Thumb).
This route has a ridiculous amount of bolts on it. But it is a fun clipup, and a good speedy romp if simul-climbed. I'm not sure the total bolt count, but I think there are as many as 16-18 bolts per pitch. Pick and choose which ones you want to use.
One rope is all that is necessary. Two one-rope raps (we had a 60m, not sure if a shorter rope would work?) from fixed stations get you to a major gully. From here, an easy trail returns you to the base.
Protection
Lots and lots of bolts. I think there may be up to 18 bolts per pitch.
By Jake Richens From: Sl, ut Aug 2, 2005 rating: 5.7
What a climb!! 4 pitches of easy slab climbing that you could pull your grandma up, actually she'd probably have a harder time with the approach than with the climb itself. Blaze up past many bolts (16 on one pitch), around the monster roof and rap into the canyon to the south, from there walk down to the beginning. great views of the whole city.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Sep 27, 2005 rating: 5.6
A single 60M rap puts you in the gully between the thumb and the dome. I 50M rope and your're coming up short. I didn't see any additonal achors on the rap to do the second rap talked abou t in the description.
The description for this route reads like it was written by some elitist #$%@&. Only the first two bolts are visible from the ground so you can't find it by looking for a "sea of bolts". I bolted the route for climbers who climb at that level. Why is it OK that a 5.12 can have bolts 5 feet apart and a 5.4 slab, where you're more likely to get banged up if you fall, usually has 50 foot spacings? Lots of beginning climbers have enjoyed their first lead or their first multi-pitch lead on this route. I suggest that rather being negative and elitist about a really fun route, that you recommend it to folks that will enjoy it. The fact that it has 17 bolts on one pitch IS useful information, (by the way that's about one bolt every 10 feet) but it doesn't have to be communicated in such a negative way. Describe the route for what it is without being negative - like this: "a long, low-angled, well-protected romp up a large pinnacle with a spectacular summit and great views - suitable for climbers off all abilities. - Now.... wasn't that easy?
Very nice climb and views at top are best in the city. The rap is way cool too. My partner and I have combined 50 years climbing experience. We both enjoyed it a lot. We were first on rock that day and when we got back to start there were two parties on and one more ready to start. It should be popular. Thanks for the bolts.
Just wanted to add that we climbed Honeymoon in Almo (11a) the day before at Castle Rocks. My partner and I actually liked both the desperately thin 11a and the fun 7. Try to enjoy the climbing and put that ego away. Theatre of Shadows is just like Snake Dike with bolts.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.7
Sure there are a lot of bolts, but like kipinwalla2 indicated, the pitches are long also. For one pitch, my wife had to untie the rope from her belay so that I could reach the next set of anchors (and that was with a 60m rope). Personally, no matter how secure the climbing is, when I am just out to have fun I don't want to slide 30' down a slab. Great climb to blaze up (I can't remember how fast we got up it, but I felt like we were on a relay as we handed off the belay from one pitch to the next). Excellent job putting up this route!
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jul 17, 2006 rating: 5.7
Great route out for a mellow long cruiser. Our 60m rope made it to each anchor but it was close on the first two pitches. Lots of bolts but who cares, great route nonetheless! Approach is the crux and pitch 3 is where the love is at!! :)
This route is awesome, the length and exposure is perfect for those not used to multi pitch routes, the route is easy but is nothing to be sneezed at, a lot of the route involves friction foot holds and crimpy hand holds. I loved the second pitch, and the third has a cool overlapping part that you can undercling(and if you tap the rock it sounds hollow!) I feel that rappelling descriptions are confusing on this page. We took 2 sixty meter ropes and made 1 rap from the top all the way to the bottom of the gully with both ropes tied together, when in doubt take the second rope! Even though it isn't hard and the angle is slightly off vertically this route is a great accomplishment for those who climb at 5.7 levels
By cassandra From: Twin Falls Id Aug 5, 2006 rating: 5.6
For this being my third climb at the city of rock it was a great experience for learning the little thing that matter. My partner and I had a new CO-pilot to the group and it work at well, but the anchors are a two man spot. The exposure was good for one man in the group. I recommend this climb for anyone who want to get a feel for working with your equipment under no stress and strain.
By Jake Cowden From: Hagerman, Id Aug 7, 2006 rating: 5.6
Climbed this route mid week, our group a three man rope team was the third group to climb this beautiful route that day as a prep route for Exum Ridge, Grand Teton. Found the Route to very pleasing with great protection (this is a beginner multi route) 60m rope will get it done. Third pitch is the fun one. This is a great confidence building route for beginners and what a view.
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Aug 16, 2006
I'd say only the first pitch is a 5.7. The rest of the route felt like a 5.4-5.6. My partner did his first lead climb ever on the first pitch, so it's a great place to take beginners. Fun rappel down!
This route is just a joy to climb. If you're unhappy with the frequency of the bolts; skip some. I personally found this a beautiful, stress-free route, in an absolutely perfect location. The fact that it is 5.7 and well bolted makes it all the better, because it is accessible to just about everyone, and everyone should experience a route like this. In other words I don't care who you are, you'll enjoy this one.
Super fun and mellow, I didn't bother clipping most bolts, but to each his own. This route is a great one to bring a new climber up.
The one thing I wanted to comment on is that, compared to similar routes in California, this route felt around 5.4 or 5.5 first pitch, 4th class second pitch, 5.0 to 5.2 third pitch. I don't care much about the rating, just wanted to warn people to watch out when climbing similar climbs elsewhere - since they won't have anywhere near as many bolts.
The 3rd pitch is a full 60 meters to the large ledge just below the summit pitch. This may be a better belay that the lower one, if you want to take a bit of gear. The rap anchors are ten feet to the right of the top belay.
a fine, fine route, with the best views in the City. I would recommend hitting this gem up in the late afternoon, such that you will be able to appreciate the route's namesake. Sitting on the summit, my partner and I became the ears of a bear! :)
Be sure to bring a beer or two for the summit, hang out and enjoy the view. We solo'd past a party who was kind enough to let us by, when they arrived we joined ropes and did a single rap to the gully.
The bolts, though plentiful, are well camo'd, so not such an eyesore as new shiny hangers might have been. This would be a great route for someone's first multi-pitch lead, or something to take a confident beginner up. The anchors are at good comfortable locations, never so far from one another that you can't be in voice contact with your second.
I gave it 4*'s, I'll climb it again sometime for certain!
Did this two days ago. With a 70m, you can do this thing in two pitches and one rap. Combine P1&2 (about 270') with about 40-50' of simul-climbing and then combine P3&4 (about 220') with no simul-climbing required. The exposure after the opening traverse of P3 is rad!!! Then look for chains toward the gulley and down about 10' and do a one rope airy, rad rap back to the ground and walk back to your packs in about 10 minutes. Doing this and not even trying to climb super fast we were able to go pack to pack in about an hour and 45 minutes.
Honestly, I enjoyed this more than Steinfells. Just my $0.02.