This is the all-bolted line near the south end of the east face. The line on this route meanders, so be relaxed as to your interpretation of the line. Don't go straight from 1 bolt to the next. The first 2 bolts require a little leftward zagging, and then you traverse right under the roof band. Get on top of the roof band and traverse left. Finally pick your smear, and head on up to the chains. A smearing climb amidst a sea of edging.
Protection
9 draws for the climb, 2 more for the anchors and a coupld of long runners.
Rumor had it that mid-way was the crux. Personally it got my attention right from the start. Going straight up to the first bolt will leave you stranded with no place to go albeit protected. Try clipping bolt or moving back down and left before moving upward to overlaps. Fun route with sketchy movements thought low angle, yet scary mid-section. Fun to do while in area especially when you don' climb slabs.
I agree w/Susan. Being a chicken, I actually got in a nut enroute to the first bolt. It really only helps with like 2 moves but if you aren't a slab guru it is reassuring to have! A great route.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Jul 19, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Wow what a fun scary climb! The first 3 bolts are scary as hell, then take a long break on top of the chickenhead before scrambling out onto the crux slab. The rest is easy.
A great mix-bag of climbing techniques: mini-crack, to undercling, over small roof, to smearland. I slipped in a small cam below and left of the first bolt. Once over the small roof, traverse down and left two steps, it's smearin' time.
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