Steep edging through patina, with a slopery finish.
This route is on the northern end of the west face of Flaming Rock. Traverse the ledge in from the right. There is a bolt for the belayer at waist level. There are two 5.10a routes here. The left, all bolt, line is Tribal Boundaries. The right route requires some small gear.
The first couple of hangers are homemade jobs, the rest are factory.
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Jul 5, 2005 rating: 5.10a
This thing is so beautiful and classic. It was one of my first 10 leads and was and absolute thrill.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Fun climbing on good rock but it wasn't as good as I was lead to believe. Still a route worth doing and the Flaming Rock area is a nice escape from the crowds of the more roadside crags.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 4, 2006
I nominate this as the best bolted 5.10 in the US. Who's with me?
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 5, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I might be convinced its the best 5.10a in the City. But, I can think of a couple of 5.10's in the Castle that seem at least as good (Shock and Awe, Red Rib).
Climbed this on Saturday, as good as ever, though the 6th or 7th bolt was a spinner (can't remember which) requiring one extra mini move to nail the bastard.
Fantastic Route! Great moves to the top, and the slabby stuff at the end makes you think a little bit but much easier than some of the other routes with similar ratings. If you have the time (and who doesn't), belay the second from the top; the view and atmosphere are worth it.
By Derek Newman From: Holladay, UT Aug 2, 2009 rating: 5.10b
I absolutely love this climb; it was my favorite climb I've done in the City- though, I've only been there once. I was so intimidated when I saw it. The climb itself is really technical and requires a large amount of balancing. I fell once on the crux (past the fourth bolt I believe) because I went too far right.
By Derek Newman From: Holladay, UT Aug 3, 2009 rating: 5.10b
This climb is now rated a 5.10 B.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 6, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Consensus here has it at 5.10-. I think its 5.10a (climbed it not long after it was put up, prior to several bolts added, and several times since).
Kind of the neat thing about this website is that folks get to vote on the rating.
Ratings are pretty subjective, but, for comparison, I think Double Vision is harder. 'Bout the same as "N and C" on Decadent. Easier than Fall Line. On par with Acid Rain. On par with Just Say Go and Pygmies. Easier than Stan's Roof.
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