Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Greg Lowe and friends, 1960's |
Page Views: | 21,996 total · 88/month |
Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Apr 9, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Aaahh, the good stuff! This crack is good, and long! On the east side of Elephant Rock—just around the corner from Just Say No—is a large boulder which forms a chimney with the face. There is a nice hand crack coming down into this chimney but not all the way to the ground. This is the Columbian Crack.
Start up the chimney toward the crack. A good option for protecting this start is to go around to the east side of the boulder before you start up and toss your rope over. Have your belayer belay from this side. Then you are essentially on TR until you get to the crack. Climb up to the top of the chimney and step out onto the boulder. Have your belayer come back around to the inside of the chimney. Now you are ready to go!
Follow the ever-widening crack to the top, passing one old SMC bolt and finishing at another single bolt. Belay at this bolt backed up with a #4 C4 or equivalent. Alternatively, continue higher and build an anchor with smaller pieces.
Rappel off the anchors for Just Say No, or walk off the south side.
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