This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.
P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.
Rap with one 60M rope.
Location
This is the obvious 1" splitter crack to the left of the large overhangs.
Protection
P1: medium hexs, 1 blue alien, 2 green aliens, 2x #0.4, 3 #0.5&0.75, 4-5 #1, 2x #2 camolots.
P2: A good selection of big hands and fist sized protection.
Fun route, but I don't think its any harder than 11a (Harvest at the COR felt harder at 10d). I would suggest more small gear and less big gear. Once you get to the #1 Camalot size crack its pretty easy. Cams work fine down low (0.5 and 0.75 really low, then some small TCUs before and after the roof).
RSS Feed
Slideshow
