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Competition Wall, South Side
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Splitter 

Shop and Compare 

5.10a

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 260 feet
Views: 229 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Jun 14, 2009


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Shop and Compare climbs the brown wall that is in ...


Description 

This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.

P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.

P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.

P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.

I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.


Location 

Start up the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack


Protection 

Light rack to 1.5 inches



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By Carl Rene Pelletier
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a

I'm not sure that a light rack is necessary. Getting to the first bolt a bit tricky...I guess that you could place a #2 cam in the crack before the first bolt, after that no need for gear...in my opinion. I carried a light rack only to have it clang around behind me throughout the climb. There is a place that you could place a #1 or #2 on the second pitch (it's a ways between bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy). I think that this was a really cool climb and very well bolted.