Mountain Project: Climbing Castle Rocks State Park

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Dec 20, 2005
Latitude: 42.1354 Longitude: -113.6700
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Description

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

Getting There

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks State Park:

Little Time 5.6 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Castle Rock : South Side

Big Time 5.7 Sport, 400 feet Castle Rock : South Side

Zinger 5.8 Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Between Heaven and Earth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Red Rib 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet Castle Rock : Southwest Side

Crimson Arete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Castle Rock : East Face

Shock and Awe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : West Buttress

Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Competition Rock, East Side

Twinkie 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Ho Ho 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Featured Route For Castle Rocks State Park

Shop and Compare climbs the brown wall that is in the shade.

Shop and Compare 5.10a ID : Castle Rocks State Park : Competition Wall, South Sid...

This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges. P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above. P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.I hig...[more] Browse More Classics in ID

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