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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Waltzing Witches
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All in Good Time S 
Beautiful Wickedness S 
How 'Bout a Little Fire? S 
I'd Turn Back If I Were You S 
I'm Melting S 
People Do Go Both Ways S 
Somewhere S 
Talk Me Out Of It S 
That's You All Over S 
What a World S 

I'd Turn Back If I Were You 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Mary Messal on I'd Turn Back If I Were You

Description 

No real crux, fairly sustained climbing on mostly good holds, bulge just below anchors. Tallest climb on this wall.

Location 

Sixth route from right end of Wall of Waltzing Witches, left of the two juniper trees in the middle of the wall.

Protection 

Bolts & chains.


Photos of I'd Turn Back If I Were You Slideshow Add Photo
Josiah coming down after top roping "I'd Turn...
Josiah coming down after top roping "I'd Turn...

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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a fun route. I though it was harder than Talk me out of it, or maybe just scarier. Definitely exposed with a great view at the top. I thought there were two cruxes, one when you are standing on the obvious big horn about halfway up and the other harder crux pulling over the last bolt to get the chains.

8 bolts + chain and rap anchor(slightly spinning, probably due to rock crumble as the bolt and nut seem plenty tight.)
By Chelsea Cook
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think both of the 8's on this wall are trickier than the 9's. Really, the 9's have only one or two 9 moves on them and then get easier. They are also more obvious and straightforward than the 8's. I think this is definitely a 5.8 climb.
By Eric Sophiea
Apr 20, 2014

Climb is to the left of two Silver Leaf Oak trees (not Juniper, as in the description) and to the right of a Piņon Pine. Great climb for the grade with a ton of fun movement that keeps you on your game till the end. It's three star climbing at this grade, frankly, but maybe just a bit too short to be a three star climb by itself. However, the view from the top is fantastic and earns it another star!
By Josiah Rabon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 1, 2015

Most of the holds on this route feel more like a 7 but there are definitely some finger tip stuff to work through. Because of how long it is I can see it being rated an 8 but over all I'd say it is more like a 7. You do get a lot of exposure as soon as you get above the trees at the base and because of how the terrain is slanted downhill it seems like you are higher than you actually are. The views are great and worth doing for sure. One more thing, you can easily set up a top rope on this route without leading it first, just find the chains and it is an easy hike/scramble to the top where you can lean over and set it up. *NOTE* I'd bring a buddy to hold your feet as you lean over
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