|570 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus: ||M5-6 [details]|
|FA: ||somebody kinda bored|
|Season: ||a good, wet winter|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2005|
getting into the heart of the brief M6 crux
This route is listed in B. Gillett's guide, RMNP High Peaks (topo p. 249), as 'icy chim', and so it is in this database. Well, perhaps this could be named, 'a mouthful of dirt' or 'patooie.' Always been curious, me, too. Hmmm. Well, um, ice climbers are exactly the sharpest tools in the shed.... This is an obvious line up a cleft on the right side of the traditional Loch Vale Gorge ice area. It has called out to be climbed. Um, er, only some listen, maybe the not-so-bright. It's probably better that way. Based upon the quantity of dirt that dropped into my mouth & lack of tool/crampon scratches, this line receives few ascents. Based upon the increase of dirt and loose rock, the left finish (M6, to a pair of 48 inch circumference trees) may not have been done previously, even if on TR.
Hike up the trail as for Lochluster, Gorge Yourself, and Mixed Feelings. When you get to the climbs, go right, find a log lying against the cliff. Find this obvious chimney route right of the log lying against the cliff on the right side of the cliff band.
To set this up, lead one of the easier climbs to the left and set up a TR off trees or hike around to the right to the ledge above the climb, rappel to the ledge. Sling some trees.
Start up easy terrain at the opening of the chimney. About midheight, find some delicate dirt or moss sticks. From here, you can sketch left (if you set your anchor on the above mentioned trees) on sloping holds (M6 s) or continue up the 'icy chim' (M4).
Curiosity might just get to you, beware.
Maybe 1 star is generous....
Best to TR, but if you must, rock rack bit big cams, big pros, kahunas.
Slings off trees.
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Nov 18, 2006
This thing actually has a decent piece of ice running up until 5 ft. from the top out right now. It may be a more interesting climb in this condition than as described above.