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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Todd Battey, Tom Burke, Jim Angione & Craig Fry, September 1988
Page Views: 1,646
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Adrienne Kentner following Icon 5.10c


This clean, steep, somewhat right leaning crack would be crowded every day of the season if it were located closer to the masses. It is located on the steep southeast face of Olympic Dome just right of Black Diamond (5.12a); to get to the base of the route, some "Class 3" climbing is necessary.

Though the crack appears fairly wide in spots, it has no dreaded offwidth sections and is an excellent route.


Bring a good selection of medium to large pro (to 4"). 2 bolt anchor/rap.

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By Murf
Jan 17, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thought there was a wide move or two up high. Vaguely disappointed although the route was very good, I suspect I was expecting a splitter, still 4 of 5 *'s. Bolts at the top, w/o chains/slings seemed an oddity.
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing rock!
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 30, 2012

I was thrilled with this one. Fabulous rock with secure, just-past-vertical jamming and straightforward gear in the most beautiful locale in the park.

As Murf said, a pair of screw-links would allow a convenient ~90' rappel from the two bolt anchor, but the downclimb (over the top, then climbers right) is doable if you don't want to leave gear.
By Richard Shore
Dec 10, 2012

Well worth the 1.5-2 hour approach. The rock is patina'ed to the point of being slippery smooth. New webbing and leaver 'biner at the anchor to facilitate rappel as of 12/2012. Nothing smaller than 0.5/0.75 Camelot needed for the lead. Pretty steep - the rappel is free hanging.
By Tradoholic
Dec 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Not sure why this is "classic". Rock is suspect and greasy and the jams aren't fun.

Webbing on the anchor is bad, have your partner follow then traverse over to rap anchors on Black Diamond (two bolts up higher w/o rap rings, two bolts lower with rap rings).
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 18, 2013

Tradaholic...I agree;..and I did the FA of the climb;....we did the climb...didn't think much of it..and then moved on to something else....seemed like "just another climb" to us at the time;...I'm not sure where all the stars came from.........thanks for keeping it real......two stars max.........(I also think our original rating was 5.10b too.....it got harder and grew stars over the years, I guess...)..but this was all 25 years ago;...I could have it all wrong;......I forget stuff..
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 19, 2013

Mr. Gordon, you can take the hits like no other. You're like teflon, letting stuff just roll off your back, not just when it's from me :)

Recent comments are funny, you've got 10 people (some of whom can be stingy with the ratings) to rate this route with 4 stars. Yet Tradaholic drags (used loosely) it down to 3 stars... Gee wiz, how would a route without "suspect rock and greasy and the jams aren't fun" rate?

Silliness all around, I'm mostly amused by Tradaholic, he's a MP regular and active climber, kinda crumbs on it but still rates it 3 stars... I'm thinking the route is still quite good and adding this to my to-do list and judge for myself!
By Tradoholic
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Before reading your comments I decided to down-grade to two stars, it's just not that good!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 20, 2013

^^ that's more like it... drag that sucker down! You're getting your fill in this trip... QM, Comicbook, etc. keep hiking like that and those holds won't feel so greasy! Keep posting your findings.... you're on a roll Tradaholic!
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is one of the best 5.10 trad lines I have done in Josh. May not be a pure crack, but what a great climb! Polished smooth patina. I am stunned that its a Todd Gordon route - no 20ft tall congealed oatmeal slabs here!!
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