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Cadillac Crag
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 
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Highway Of Ra T 
Ichiban Arete T 
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Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
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Ichiban Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,564
Submitted By: David Benson on Sep 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Chuck leading calmly near the first clip.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at a tree about 50' up a gully between Fin One and Fin Two. From the tree, move up and diagonaling up and right on good holds. It is possible to clip the first bolt of The Untitled (12a) as well as the first bolt of Ichiban Arete. Move around the corner, clip a bolt and continue up easy climbing (7) to the summit. The [rappel] bolts here are not very well placed, but you can [rappel] to the NW and then scramble down.

The bolt out and right of the belay tree is NOT for Ichiban Arete. Don't make this mistake like we did, you end up on an alternate start to The Untitled (11c/d). The moves are good, but [definitely] not 10b.

Protection 

QDs and a light rack.


Photos of Ichiban Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Clint Locks starting up 'Ichiban Arete' - 4/28/07. Photo: Dave Holliday.
Clint Locks starting up 'Ichiban Arete' - 4/28/07....

Comments on Ichiban Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2011
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2001
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is also quite possible to place a reasonably good Lowe tricam prior to reaching the bolts. It is the red one, if I recall correctly, but it has been years... I carry only pink, red, brown, so it has to be one of those.
By Mark Morehouse
Apr 4, 2002

I did this route several years ago and found it easy for 5.10b. Climbing up the arete is fun and very exposed. You can stick a cam (#3 Camalot, I think) in one of the pockets as psychological pro if you want, but I don't advise falling here.

The rappel bolts are in a odd spot, but for what its worth, you can rig a toprope from them for the untitled 5.12 (which is decent climb) with a little webbing.
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 22, 2002

ICHIBAN!!! yeah Mark, I thought the same thing about the grade, super cool route though. Bolts en route are new and draws will do for pro if you don't mind running it out a bit. Those bolts on top are starting to look pretty ancient and they are sharp, check the webbing..
By Richard Rossiter
Sep 28, 2003

Joyce (my wife of the time) and I did this route and The Untitled nearly 20 years ago. I went back up and climbed these routes during the summer of 2002. The initial stretch above the "belay tree" is really bogus and needs an additional bolt. Also the anchors at the top of the tower are not in a useful place and should probably be relocated at the top of face of The Untitled. This is a case of 20-20 hindsight. Please realize that 20 years ago "sport climbing" was in its infancy and the concept of lowering off from a climb was nearly unknown. One simply led the pitch, brought up the second, then walked off or rappelled. It was an extension of mountaineering.

Cadillac Crag is not in Eldorado Canyon State Park, nor is it in Boulder Mountain Parks. I believe this crag lies in a narrow stretch of BLM land and is not subject to the bolting restrictions of either agency. I may very well return and upgrade the fixed gear as is logical by modern standards.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 4, 2003

Followed this today and we found the initial clip way [runout]. My leader threaded a runner off a branch on the fir tree...as the first clip is a ways up, with no other apparent pro. Richard, I agree, a bolt down lower is necessary. The climbing felt a bit soft for (10b) on the face, but good nonetheless. Decent crimps...Once up on the arete its a fun jugfest.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

An extra bolt might not hurt the route, I guess. If it doesn't get placed, or until it does, you can put good gear in. Just take your Lowe tricams & look for the pocket. My partner and I both though it was bomber.
By Umph!
Sep 30, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great little line on excellent rock. Yes, the first bolt clip and the upper section should both be considered RO (though the climbing is easy). Also, there is no way that this route is 10b - solid 9+ (and a very short crux at that). Adding a bolt is unnecessary (though the old rap anchors and their position are questionable).
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 29, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Even with the tri-cam placement, this route definitely warrants an 'R' rating.
By D. Shaw
Sep 3, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Worth doing if you like the dicey lead. Go up the gulley from the tree, not out to the funky looking bolt to right of the tree. Place gear in the corner, then traverse right to good holds (don't fall!). Work your way to the bottom bolt in the line on the 12a route, then veer off right (crux) to a bolt near the arete. If you then step right onto the arete, it is a long way to the next bolt, but very fun, easy climbing.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Compared to nearby sandbag 9+'s Deviant and Highway of Diamonds, this climb is very easy. With double ropes, the initial traverse is safe and not at all scary. I then downclimbed a bit and traversed out. I didn't see the Tri Cam placement that Tony mentioned, but there's a sinker brass nut in the thin vertical crack to protect the move up to the first bolt.I clipped my left rope a little too high up the corner and so had some drag after I rounded the arete. It would have been better to clip the left rope to the nut in the corner and then to the 3rd rather than 2nd or 1st bolts and clip the right bolt to a nut (optional) and 1st and 2nd bolts.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I like it spicy! Don't put another bolt in, it's pretty obvious what you're getting into from safety; it's a choice to go up or not, if you're not feeling it, rap off!

Also, a #1 C4 goes in well after the initial right traverse on the quest over to the bolt.

At the top, there is a bolted anchor at the top of The Untitled in addition to the top anchor. The top anchor has a long cordelette and a large quicklink, and the Untitled anchor has rings.

@Gregg: Sounds like your disappointment stems not from the lack of quality of IB, but frustration with your inability to sack up and lead The Untitled. Since IB is well below your ability, pretend, for a moment, that some other climbers don't TR .12 like you can, and that leading a .10/.9+ face route with an exciting runout is fun!

Good route, Richard!
By Patrik
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with Ivan above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamonds, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a routes in Eldo, Ichiban is a bit easier. Gearwise, I would put it at PG. Mostly you get great gear (and you can even back up a bolt with a great nut!), but there is a small runout section. However, there's nothing to hit if falling.